You should check for vaccum leaks, the last speedtuning gb had a couble of guys having problems with theres and found out they had vaccum leaks.
Also you should get a boost gauge

 

i did give him a call and he said check n75,dv,vacumm leaks, etc. im guna go get my hands dirty right now and see what i find

 

Good luck. Check your breather hose on the back of your valve cover those usually go bad.

 

An interior boost gauge isn't the best diagnostic tool, but it's the next best thing to vag com if you don't have it. There may be something else wrong with your car, like a broken waste gate arm or something else. Although, when I got GIAC in my 2000 I was in and out of limp mode like a **** for about a month and then it seemed to correct itself... I'ts dbw though. There is some fuel trim adaptation that goes on for several drive cycles, but I definitely knew I had +50hp here and there. There have been a issues with our GB's, and it's usually due to something unrelated to the chip, but sometimes not. Just don't freak out on them until you're sure.
I gave the example of a broken wastegate arm because it happened to me. You would get 0 boost at any load and get the same performance chipped or not. Timing would adapt and you'd just run rich. It would be like having a brick in your exhaust. You don't have a map sensor so you don't need to worry about going into limp from overboosting or underboosting. If you havent replaced the DV then the diaphragm my be torn and leaking boost back into the intake. Even if you don't have a CEL there may be a fault code stored. Check it out.

A vac leak wont cause a significant loss of boost. If a vac leak is bad enough to majory disrupt manifold pressure then your engine would be close to stalling at idle.

 

Thanks for the info onepoint, how would i check if i had a broken waste gate arm? (sounds intense)

Well i was out searching my car and i checked out my diverter valve and i found this....


The vacuum hose that exits the diverter valve is only about 8 inches and its totally broken. i looped it around so that you could see where it was in relation to the DV. Would this be my problem? Im going to get a new vac line tomorrow to replace it

 

Isnt that the hose that opens diaphram/valve inside? If im correct your DV is not letting any air out at all... Get a 007 or a splitter from forge.

 

It may not be the FULL problem, but it's definitely contributing. Dont just buy enough to replace that one line, buy a few feet of the tubing and replace every vac line you can get your hands on. The factory tubing is notorious for going very brittle very quick and if that one is completely shattered, chances are more than likely the rest are all on their way out if they too havent shredded yet.

 

I got off the phone with Oliver before I read or knew about this post. I actually called him as I was leaving the post office. I asked him specifically what to do once I get the chip. He said to plug it in, leave the key in accessory mode for about 5 minutes and then drive. He specifically said that it takes time for the ecu to learn, around 75-100 miles. You get a smaller percentage initially, then it eventually gains full potential.

Hope this is true for you and the rest of us.

 

Yea ill give it around 100 miles. After around 125 ***** going down! haha

 

Haha...I'd start worrying around 98 miles. Oliver better refund me all that damn one day express shipping I had to pay.