help pt. 2
#12
RE: help pt. 2
It can be a pretty hard job to do, i just did one for another member yesterday.
The dealer will typically charge 6 hours to change it out.
You need to take thevalve cover off, un-bolt the cams and tensioner and pull it out. I usually use a channel lock to hold the timing belt on the cam pulley (saves you hours of work taking off the timing belt)
Put the engine at TDC, and line up the cam shaft timing marks, and count 16 chain links between the marks when installing the new tensioner. Like in the pic below.
The dealer will typically charge 6 hours to change it out.
You need to take thevalve cover off, un-bolt the cams and tensioner and pull it out. I usually use a channel lock to hold the timing belt on the cam pulley (saves you hours of work taking off the timing belt)
Put the engine at TDC, and line up the cam shaft timing marks, and count 16 chain links between the marks when installing the new tensioner. Like in the pic below.
#14
RE: help pt. 2
TOP DEAD CENTER, meaning the number 1 cylinder is at the top of its stroke with the timing marks lined up. You can easilly see the cam timing mark by taking off the upper timing belt cover, take out the number 1 spark plug to see if the piston is at the top of its stroke if you don't wanna look for the crank timing mark.
You can either just bump the engine over with the key, or turn the engine over by hand with a 12 point 19mm socket at the crank.
You can either just bump the engine over with the key, or turn the engine over by hand with a 12 point 19mm socket at the crank.
#16
RE: help pt. 2
Look up the FAQ under your profile to learn how to post pics, its best to use a site like photobucket to post pics.
All tensioners are basically the same, the older ones without the electrical connection are just a lot cheaper.
All tensioners are basically the same, the older ones without the electrical connection are just a lot cheaper.