Help noob change water pump! 2.8L 98
#1
Help noob change water pump! 2.8L 98
Hi, i just started taking everything apart yesterday, i took everything apart, i took off the fan blade but i cannot unfasten the fan pulley like it says on the guide. That is the last part i need to remove but i am unable to unfasten. Any tricks? anything wrong am i doing?
thanks alot for any help
Samuel
thanks alot for any help
Samuel
#2
Rotate the pulley slowly while shining a flashlight in through the holes in the face of the pulley. There are a couple hidden Allen bolts behind there that you'll need to remove to take it off. You did index the engine at TDC on cylinder 3 (rear pass side) on the compression stroke first right?
#3
Rotate the pulley slowly while shining a flashlight in through the holes in the face of the pulley. There are a couple hidden Allen bolts behind there that you'll need to remove to take it off. You did index the engine at TDC on cylinder 3 (rear pass side) on the compression stroke first right?
#7
Indexing the engine positions it so that the cams are flat-spotted. This keeps them from spinning when you take the timing belt off (which you have to do since it drives the water pump). You can still manually index the engine from where you are. Remove the upper timing covers and look at the oval brackets on the cam sprockets. There is a small hole and a large hole in each. Put a 24mm socket on a breaker bar and hand-rotate the crank until those brackets are horizontal with the large holes toward the center of the engine, small holes toward the fenders. That'll put the engine in the proper index.
Where you may have trouble is the hydraulic tensioner - once the pin is pulled and tension is applied, it's not really meant to be pushed back again, but given the amount of disassembly you're doing you should at least change the timing tensioner, relay arm, idler roller, tensioner roller, thermostat, and timing/serpentine belts while you're in there so you don't have to tear it back down later. Do it all at once.
Where you may have trouble is the hydraulic tensioner - once the pin is pulled and tension is applied, it's not really meant to be pushed back again, but given the amount of disassembly you're doing you should at least change the timing tensioner, relay arm, idler roller, tensioner roller, thermostat, and timing/serpentine belts while you're in there so you don't have to tear it back down later. Do it all at once.
#10
Read what I said above - the tensioner really isn't meant to be detensioned and you'll have a hell of a time with it. There's a chance you may compromise it trying to press it back in. It (along with the other stuff I've listed) should be changed out while you're in there. On every t-belt job I do I remove the idler roller to put slack in the belt and then remove the tensioning parts. Don't fvck around with this - get a new tensioner and related parts for ease of replacement and peace of mind. Two areas not to cut corners on this car are the timing assembly and brake work. Do it right.