Heater Core Shot, '01 A4!!
#1
Heater Core Shot, '01 A4!!
Hey all,
Been a while since I've posted, ran into another problem (had a fair share so far..) and hoping for some advice here..
So the heater core started leaking on out '01 A4, luckily it's not behind the dash but still in the engine compartment but nonetheless the dealership says it should be changed out which is going to cost around $1300... I was wondering if I could just by-pass the whole thing, I'd lose the cabin heating but I could probably live with that for a while and just put an extra sweater on. Am I understanding the functioning correctly, if I keep the thermostat on cold with the fan on minimum would that effectively by-pass the heater core as well and stop the leakage so I can at least drive it for a bit longer?
While I love the car (in the periods between issues), it's an '01 and has around 120k miles, so I'm thinking about upgrading and therefore would prefer not to spend the $1300 or so and use that money towards a newer car..
All advice welcome, thanks in advance!! Oh, we're in Salt Lake, if anybody knows of a cheaper place for labor (Alpine doesn't change them unfortunately), please let me know as well!!
Thanks again!!
Been a while since I've posted, ran into another problem (had a fair share so far..) and hoping for some advice here..
So the heater core started leaking on out '01 A4, luckily it's not behind the dash but still in the engine compartment but nonetheless the dealership says it should be changed out which is going to cost around $1300... I was wondering if I could just by-pass the whole thing, I'd lose the cabin heating but I could probably live with that for a while and just put an extra sweater on. Am I understanding the functioning correctly, if I keep the thermostat on cold with the fan on minimum would that effectively by-pass the heater core as well and stop the leakage so I can at least drive it for a bit longer?
While I love the car (in the periods between issues), it's an '01 and has around 120k miles, so I'm thinking about upgrading and therefore would prefer not to spend the $1300 or so and use that money towards a newer car..
All advice welcome, thanks in advance!! Oh, we're in Salt Lake, if anybody knows of a cheaper place for labor (Alpine doesn't change them unfortunately), please let me know as well!!
Thanks again!!
#4
I've beentold by a reliable source that BARR's leak works well. That is their fairly new product.
http://www.barsproducts.com/1111.htm.
Cost is a little high but may be worth a try.
http://www.barsproducts.com/1111.htm.
Cost is a little high but may be worth a try.
#5
Bars Leak has been good through the years. I have used it many times. If I were to try one it would be this one.
http://www.barsproducts.com/PLT11.htm
Good Luck...
http://www.barsproducts.com/PLT11.htm
Good Luck...
#6
Hey, the two shops I most frequently visit, are autograff motor works, and alex's auto hauz. I couldn't tell you the labor for each, but they always have done quality work. alex's auto hauz deals with mainly audis, some other europeans, so they have a really good knowledge of your car. autograff is just very reliable, and they will look your car over completely and give you an estimate. or they could probalby just quote you over the phone. Autograff is in downtown SLC, alex's is out in sandy.
#7
Thanks for ther advice guys!! I have thought of products like Barrs, however due to the size of the leak I suspect it's a crack rather than a pinhole and have my doubts about whether a product as such can fix it..
I'll give Autograff a call as well and see how much they charge.
Thanks again!!
I'll give Autograff a call as well and see how much they charge.
Thanks again!!
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