headlights wont turn on plz help
#11
08-11-2010, 01:59 PM
Damn guys thank you for all your help as soon as i get free time ill do everything all yous recommented and ill post a reply as soon as i get that fix thank you once again for now ill just drive mine to work and ill use my wifes audi in the night.
#12
08-11-2010, 04:45 PM
This is the DIY fix to the problem that you most likely have
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec114.shtml
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec114.shtml
#13
02-01-2014, 11:54 AM
Since diagnostics was done and it sounds like you've done it. Do you recall what wires are for the "Low Beams"? That switch has bunch of wires in the back. If I can trace them wires for the low beam. I can just clip splice below the main switch assembly, somewhere where this is easy access and have a seperate switch.
BTW, YES.. I had issu with lights not coming. TYPICAL. so I bought the NEW switch. Had it installed.. 6 months down the road, they stoped working again. Fuse is good. NO dont have Fog's sooo.. NOW.. driving on my amber.. hoping NO popo gets in my way.. till i get paid to get it fixed.
What switch would be ideal, any ideas? I'm thinking just stoping by NAPA or AutoZone. Get a switch/wires that can handle say 20amps. ?
Let me know what you guys think?
BTW, YES.. I had issu with lights not coming. TYPICAL. so I bought the NEW switch. Had it installed.. 6 months down the road, they stoped working again. Fuse is good. NO dont have Fog's sooo.. NOW.. driving on my amber.. hoping NO popo gets in my way.. till i get paid to get it fixed.
What switch would be ideal, any ideas? I'm thinking just stoping by NAPA or AutoZone. Get a switch/wires that can handle say 20amps. ?
Let me know what you guys think?
#14
02-01-2014, 11:56 AM
Lights wont come on
1999 Light switch
Since diagnostics was done and it sounds like you've done it. Do you recall what wires are for the "Low Beams"? That switch has bunch of wires in the back. If I can trace them wires for the low beam. I can just clip splice below the main switch assembly, somewhere where this is easy access and have a seperate switch.
BTW, YES.. I had issu with lights not coming. TYPICAL. so I bought the NEW switch. Had it installed.. 6 months down the road, they stoped working again. Fuse is good. NO dont have Fog's sooo.. NOW.. driving on my amber.. hoping NO popo gets in my way.. till i get paid to get it fixed.
What switch would be ideal, any ideas? I'm thinking just stoping by NAPA or AutoZone. Get a switch/wires that can handle say 20amps. ?
Let me know what you guys think?
Since diagnostics was done and it sounds like you've done it. Do you recall what wires are for the "Low Beams"? That switch has bunch of wires in the back. If I can trace them wires for the low beam. I can just clip splice below the main switch assembly, somewhere where this is easy access and have a seperate switch.
BTW, YES.. I had issu with lights not coming. TYPICAL. so I bought the NEW switch. Had it installed.. 6 months down the road, they stoped working again. Fuse is good. NO dont have Fog's sooo.. NOW.. driving on my amber.. hoping NO popo gets in my way.. till i get paid to get it fixed.
What switch would be ideal, any ideas? I'm thinking just stoping by NAPA or AutoZone. Get a switch/wires that can handle say 20amps. ?
Let me know what you guys think?
#15
02-01-2014, 11:58 AM
The switch goes bad because for all their over-engineering, Audi decided to run the full current used by the headlights through the switch. There's little plastic slider that holds the contacts that complete the circuit when you flick your headlight stalk up. The current creates heat which melts the contacts deeper into plastic slider, preventing them from making good contact inside the switch. The DIY fix works but has been known to eventually fail again. There's guys on here who've done that fix 5 times. The new switch uses the same plastic slider which will also eventually melt over time. The proper fix would be to wire a relay in between the battery and the switch, which would keep all that juice from running through the switch in the first place. A new combi switch is ~$150, if you're remotely handy I recommend just doing the DIY fix. Be careful with the airbag.
Since diagnostics was done and it sounds like you've done it. Do you recall what wires are for the "Low Beams"? That switch has bunch of wires in the back. If I can trace them wires for the low beam. I can just clip splice below the main switch assembly, somewhere where this is easy access and have a seperate switch.
BTW, YES.. I had issu with lights not coming. TYPICAL. so I bought the NEW switch. Had it installed.. 6 months down the road, they stoped working again. Fuse is good. NO dont have Fog's sooo.. NOW.. driving on my amber.. hoping NO popo gets in my way.. till i get paid to get it fixed.
What switch would be ideal, any ideas? I'm thinking just stoping by NAPA or AutoZone. Get a switch/wires that can handle say 20amps. ?
Let me know what you guys think?
#16
02-01-2014, 01:37 PM
Unfortunately the reason they stopped working again is because the cause of the problem was not addressed, merely the symptom (dead switch.)
Installing relays for the headlights will permanently solve the problem without having to wire in some secondary switch.
The article I wrote below identifies the headlight wires if you do wish to put a different switch in.
A4 B5 DIY: Install headlight relays
Installing relays for the headlights will permanently solve the problem without having to wire in some secondary switch.
The article I wrote below identifies the headlight wires if you do wish to put a different switch in.
A4 B5 DIY: Install headlight relays
#17
02-01-2014, 10:22 PM
not a bad idea. but keep in my my NEW switch already shot for low beam. Why would I wana buy another Brand new switch just to incorporate the relay?
See, Also I didn't mention that im Running HID, which require 35A fuse. Even though its just for "igniting" purposes, its still gated at 35A.. So that doesn't help since its the amperage heat that is eating up that fancy Audi engineering inside that switch.
It sucks, that it never occurred to me that this problem would come back to me again. I thought, this switch issue due to long use of the switch and that's it.
but it definitely looks like its amperage and heat.
See, Also I didn't mention that im Running HID, which require 35A fuse. Even though its just for "igniting" purposes, its still gated at 35A.. So that doesn't help since its the amperage heat that is eating up that fancy Audi engineering inside that switch.
It sucks, that it never occurred to me that this problem would come back to me again. I thought, this switch issue due to long use of the switch and that's it.
but it definitely looks like its amperage and heat.
#18
02-01-2014, 10:51 PM
Do you not have your HIDs on relays already? You should.
I can send you a fresh (non-melted) contact housing if you would like. You don't need to replace the entire stalk again.
I also have OEM relays and plugs that fit into the relay panel I can sell you for a nominal price.
I can send you a fresh (non-melted) contact housing if you would like. You don't need to replace the entire stalk again.
I also have OEM relays and plugs that fit into the relay panel I can sell you for a nominal price.
#19
02-01-2014, 11:58 PM
Thanks man..
Now that I think of . agree I should had a relay, but just looking for best solution to my current situation..
This morning I took everything off and took that medal plate of that switch. Got alook at it, and just looks flimsy.
(Became a pro of taking my airbag off)
Now that I think of . agree I should had a relay, but just looking for best solution to my current situation..
This morning I took everything off and took that medal plate of that switch. Got alook at it, and just looks flimsy.
(Became a pro of taking my airbag off)
#20
02-02-2014, 12:01 AM
Do you not have your HIDs on relays already? You should.
I can send you a fresh (non-melted) contact housing if you would like. You don't need to replace the entire stalk again.
I also have OEM relays and plugs that fit into the relay panel I can sell you for a nominal price.
I can send you a fresh (non-melted) contact housing if you would like. You don't need to replace the entire stalk again.
I also have OEM relays and plugs that fit into the relay panel I can sell you for a nominal price.
I had my Ecode assembly/ HID and light switch all done at same time.. this last summer. it was working great, once in it flickers on me randomly...
Then one time, I just played and wit a switch for while and they came back on.
BUt NOW , they just wont come on.. High beam works, park light works.
ONLY my low beams are out..