Engine doesn't get to NOT acording to ECT gague
#1
10-23-2012, 06:33 PM
Engine doesn't get to NOT acording to ECT gague
I searched around the forums and couldn't find my exact situation, so here we go...
I purchased my B5 about 3 months ago, with knowledge of a flaky ECT sensor. I replaced the sensor (with what I believe was the correct replacement from ECS) and sensor flange within a week of purchase, and it seemed to be working fine until I rode with my friend in his 330i and realized his coolant temp gauge sits at the middle (normal operating temp) all the time. My car starts cold all the way to the left, then once warmed up sits around the 3/8 mark of the gauge.
The only things i could think of was my thermostat was stuck, the ECT sensor was the wrong replacement, but the car was still running at operating temp just wrong voltage being sent to gauge.
I am getting bad gas mileage, but I believe that's from a bad O2 (Vag-com cable ordered, in mail) not related to this.
Thanks
I purchased my B5 about 3 months ago, with knowledge of a flaky ECT sensor. I replaced the sensor (with what I believe was the correct replacement from ECS) and sensor flange within a week of purchase, and it seemed to be working fine until I rode with my friend in his 330i and realized his coolant temp gauge sits at the middle (normal operating temp) all the time. My car starts cold all the way to the left, then once warmed up sits around the 3/8 mark of the gauge.
The only things i could think of was my thermostat was stuck, the ECT sensor was the wrong replacement, but the car was still running at operating temp just wrong voltage being sent to gauge.
I am getting bad gas mileage, but I believe that's from a bad O2 (Vag-com cable ordered, in mail) not related to this.
Thanks
#2
10-23-2012, 06:59 PM
Sounds like the thermostat is stuck partially open. It'll have to be replaced. This can hurt fuel economy - with the t-stat partially open, coolant won't fully warm and the ECU will think the car is still warming up, and will run on enriched cold-start fueling maps. A check for you - if you stop the car and let it idle, will it warm up any further than where the needle sits while driving?
#3
10-23-2012, 07:26 PM
Sounds like the thermostat is stuck partially open. It'll have to be replaced. This can hurt fuel economy - with the t-stat partially open, coolant won't fully warm and the ECU will think the car is still warming up, and will run on enriched cold-start fueling maps. A check for you - if you stop the car and let it idle, will it warm up any further than where the needle sits while driving?
Yep t-stat is stuck open. Same thing happened to me. Thankfully it happened a little before I did the timing belt.
#4
10-23-2012, 08:07 PM
I searched around the forums and couldn't find my exact situation, so here we go...
I purchased my B5 about 3 months ago, with knowledge of a flaky ECT sensor. I replaced the sensor (with what I believe was the correct replacement from ECS) and sensor flange within a week of purchase, and it seemed to be working fine until I rode with my friend in his 330i and realized his coolant temp gauge sits at the middle (normal operating temp) all the time. My car starts cold all the way to the left, then once warmed up sits around the 3/8 mark of the gauge.
The only things i could think of was my thermostat was stuck, the ECT sensor was the wrong replacement, but the car was still running at operating temp just wrong voltage being sent to gauge.
I am getting bad gas mileage, but I believe that's from a bad O2 (Vag-com cable ordered, in mail) not related to this.
Thanks
I purchased my B5 about 3 months ago, with knowledge of a flaky ECT sensor. I replaced the sensor (with what I believe was the correct replacement from ECS) and sensor flange within a week of purchase, and it seemed to be working fine until I rode with my friend in his 330i and realized his coolant temp gauge sits at the middle (normal operating temp) all the time. My car starts cold all the way to the left, then once warmed up sits around the 3/8 mark of the gauge.
The only things i could think of was my thermostat was stuck, the ECT sensor was the wrong replacement, but the car was still running at operating temp just wrong voltage being sent to gauge.
I am getting bad gas mileage, but I believe that's from a bad O2 (Vag-com cable ordered, in mail) not related to this.
Thanks
I would replace the thermostat. You're going to need a gallon of G12 Coolant about $20 or so and this:
Audi B5 A4 Quattro 1.8T > Search > Thermostat > ES#2581867 Thermostat Replacement Kit - 050121113CKT-3
It's an easy job. Do some searching to find the DIY or get a cheap manual off of ebay.
#5
10-24-2012, 01:51 PM
Thanks Guys
Sweet... thanks everyone, my situation sounds exactly like what xxNeverG1veUpxx said, looks like thermostats stuck. I guess I'll have something to do this weekend, haha
Thanks
Thanks
#6
10-25-2012, 12:57 AM
I feel like my t-stat is stuck open too
when driving on the highway it always sits about less than half but when i idle it hits the middle mark quite easily. BUT my oil temp never goes above the middle of the second tic mark (the first is like 150 and the middle is 220 or 200 so i estimate its about 170 degrees).
Basically the coolant is only at the middle when idle, I notice it rising fast at idle though which I would believe is normal. The oil temp never exceeds "half way to the half of the gauge".
Is doing this job a pain? Seems like I gotta remove the alt and a hose next to the throttle body? I also need a coolant flange and the coolant temperature sender (this is what is leaking on out of the flange but I figure replace it all and do it right). I also have like no coolant so i figure I might as well do it all instead of needing to drain it out and fix this.
when driving on the highway it always sits about less than half but when i idle it hits the middle mark quite easily. BUT my oil temp never goes above the middle of the second tic mark (the first is like 150 and the middle is 220 or 200 so i estimate its about 170 degrees).
Basically the coolant is only at the middle when idle, I notice it rising fast at idle though which I would believe is normal. The oil temp never exceeds "half way to the half of the gauge".
Is doing this job a pain? Seems like I gotta remove the alt and a hose next to the throttle body? I also need a coolant flange and the coolant temperature sender (this is what is leaking on out of the flange but I figure replace it all and do it right). I also have like no coolant so i figure I might as well do it all instead of needing to drain it out and fix this.
Last edited by aeeroN; 10-25-2012 at 01:07 AM.
#7
10-25-2012, 07:28 PM
I feel like my t-stat is stuck open too
when driving on the highway it always sits about less than half but when i idle it hits the middle mark quite easily. BUT my oil temp never goes above the middle of the second tic mark (the first is like 150 and the middle is 220 or 200 so i estimate its about 170 degrees).
Basically the coolant is only at the middle when idle, I notice it rising fast at idle though which I would believe is normal. The oil temp never exceeds "half way to the half of the gauge".
Is doing this job a pain? Seems like I gotta remove the alt and a hose next to the throttle body? I also need a coolant flange and the coolant temperature sender (this is what is leaking on out of the flange but I figure replace it all and do it right). I also have like no coolant so i figure I might as well do it all instead of needing to drain it out and fix this.
when driving on the highway it always sits about less than half but when i idle it hits the middle mark quite easily. BUT my oil temp never goes above the middle of the second tic mark (the first is like 150 and the middle is 220 or 200 so i estimate its about 170 degrees).
Basically the coolant is only at the middle when idle, I notice it rising fast at idle though which I would believe is normal. The oil temp never exceeds "half way to the half of the gauge".
Is doing this job a pain? Seems like I gotta remove the alt and a hose next to the throttle body? I also need a coolant flange and the coolant temperature sender (this is what is leaking on out of the flange but I figure replace it all and do it right). I also have like no coolant so i figure I might as well do it all instead of needing to drain it out and fix this.
Audi B5 A4 Quattro 1.8T > Search > Thermostat > ES#2912 Thermostat Housing - 030121121B
Buy the whole kit to replace the thermostat, o-rings and housing. Easy job. There may be a DIY somewhere around here, so start searching.
Let me know if you run into any problems
#9
10-25-2012, 09:35 PM
OEM / Performance Parts for Audi, BMW, Mercedes Benz, Mini, Porsche & Volkswagen - ECS Tuning
Call ECS if you have any technical questions, they can lead you the right way. OR next best thing is go to your Audi Stealership and get them to tell you what part # to get for it and buy it somewhere else cheaper.
Also, here is how to check your engine code:
Audi Engine Code - How To Your Audi Engine Code
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