Luckily only the European models with AEB engines have to deal with immobilizers. Our AEB ECUs are 100% swappable if the part numbers match (some say they have even swapped non-matching part numbers). For example, my original ECU is tuned with GIAC PC-16, and I had to go back to stock everything to pass emissions so I bought a stock ECU ($80) from ebay. It was plug-and-play.

There are plenty of used ECUs on ebay, I've seen them as low as $70 shipped. If you went that route I'd be willing to buy it from you after you're done if it turns out your current ECU isn't the issue. Or you could sell it on Vortex or something like that, it probably would move pretty quickly.

 

yes metalman is correct.

b5's do not have imobilizers thats something you dont have to worry about.
the ecu's are pretty easy. it helps if you find on for a 1.8t with same trans but i have
seen someone just throw an ecu in his 99 and it worked lol.

also that means if you ever have to get a new key NO you do not need to program the key to the car becuase there is no imobilizer. but you will have to program the remote which is easy.

so you say you are clean of coolant migration.

descibe again what your car is doing, if you could please, i re-read everyhing. just sometimes when you retell the concern you might tell some extra info that you may have forgotten to throw in last time

 

You do bring up a good point... in some cases the ECU may need to be coded through VAG-COM to change transmission type and things of that nature.

 

It won't start. All the lights that normally come on do, except the CEL, which occasionally flickers (not blink). The car cranks, but will not start. All other electrical stuff seems to be in good working order.

I'm pretty sure it's the ECU.

The good news is, for 150 bucks, APR will do a warranty transfer, check my ECU to see if their chip (it's a solder on kind) is causing the problem, and fix it if it is, OR transfer the chip over to a new ECU if that is the case... sure beats paying 400 bucks, or driving around stock!

 

UPDATE: Swapped out the ECU and everything is good.

So, if anyone does a search for something like this in the future, you have a couple things to check out (proper grounds and coolant migration) and if that all checks out, try a different ECU. Moral of the story, no CEL with the key in the on position, you probably have a bad ECU.

 

Yeah I'm having the same issue with the cell light not coming on with key in the on getting the flickering and hay wire rpm gauge and at one point of time the fuse box was clickin to got a ecu one the way hope it works

 

Jennifer,
Did this work for you? Sort of the same issue here. My ECU gets intermittent power then just dies out. EPC and CEL come on once in a while, car starts then...off with no more EPC/CEL. Looking for a replacement.

Felix

 

I've had an "ECM Open circuit" code blow the ECM fuse twice now. It first happened when I (just barely) arced two wires on an ignition coil pack harness. I was sure I fried my ECM, but it was just a fuse (for now). It happened again a few days later, but I replaced the fuse again and now (it seems) fine.

If I were you, I'd at least try checking the related fuses and relays. The fuel filter should be changed on GP, if you don't know how long it's been in there (although I highly doubt that's your problem).

+1 on the VAG COM. I don't know how I ever lived w/o it.

G/L