I'm getting that code and I took the clip and connector off, but when I went to remove the valve, I couldn't see how it comes out.

Does anyone have any knowledge on this? Maybe a write up and a part number?

Thanks

 

The solenoid is part of the variable valve cam chain positioner, it doesn't come off as a separate unit (it might but you won't be able to put it back on). You have to put the engine on top dead center with the timing marks aligned, take the valve cover off, unbolt the intake cam retainers, remove the cam timing sensor, compress the timing chain positioner guides with a special tool (that comes with the new VVT positioner) lift up on the rear end of the intake cam and remove the entire VVT unit, then you have to replace it with a new unit, making sure the chain goes back on exactly as it came off (16 links between timing marks) then bolt everything back together and start the engine. This is sort of a 10% overview of the process, theres a lot to it and doing it wrong can destroy your valves, head and possibly the engine. I'm sure there are plenty of posts here about replacing the VVT solenoid. I just did one last weekend, took me about 3 hours, but I've done it before.

How to change a 1.8T cam chain positioner

 

****! I knew it would be something time consuming/pain in the *** to do.

I just had my entire timing kit replaced, along with all of the gaskets, so I don't want to take anything apart.

I seriously doubt it's the mechanical timing that's off (unless the belt jumped a tooth, which I doubt).

The fuel pump is new, but the diaphragm in it has been defective since installation.

The timing kit and fuel pump have been in long enough to not be the problem (most likely). I changed the fuel pump relay, so that leaves three possibilities if I'm not mistaken: The valve switch, the manual timing, or the tuned ECU, but even the ECU has been in there long enough w/o any problems, so the switch is the only thing that hasn't been changed.

What do you think - and is the "Clacking" noise I'm hearing at low RPM the sound of detonation/anything harmful, or is the car just killing the cylinder to avoid such damage?

Thanks!

 

What code are you getting? the one that says the cam is over advanced, don't remember the number P0012 or something like that?

My sons car (I'm the designated mechanic that works for free) sounded like a chain dragging across metal (which it was) and his lower foot (the metal part) on the positioner had actually separated from the piston rod and was jamming the chain between the positioner and the block. Sounded nasty, told him a month ago to get it fixed, and he just kept driving it, till luckily his serpentine belt broke and the battery died so I got to fix both at the same time before he chewed his block and chain down to nothing. First experience with having to pull the front end out into the service position.

If its the positioner its not a tough job to do, but you just need to pay attention to the procedure.

 

This is not correct. It is two small bolts. Comes off easy and goes back on.

 

I figured it out. The cam chain tension is finally taken a ****. I've needed one for quite some time now, but the noise it has always was tolerable. It just sounded like your typical overhead cams, just a bit louder. Now I understand why my Audi guy was trying to stress this to me so long ago. "I can already tell, but when it goes, you'll know it", so replace it once you start hearing that (it comes for the top of the back of the engine, but the noises origin is so hard to pinpoint that it's easy to over think it.

If your cams/valves start making more noise than they should (IE If they're not quiet) then make sure you have a good cam chain tensioner, because it can do serious damage if it's not addressed.

Thanks for the input guys!