desperate...PLEASE!
#22
So went to orileys this morning and got a 12 pt t40 bit. come to find out the previous owner (also happens to be a PREVIOUS friend) had a guy that was a mechanic for audi to work on his car. The last thing he had done to the car before I acquired it was the front axels were replaced. Now the idiot rounded off two of the bolts and I can't get them out. Anyone have any suggestions? I am also having a hard time getting the starter off. Again it would have been nice to have more photos in the DIY for this. but got the cat off and man that thing is dirty as hell. If I were able to I would definately be putting on a high flow cat but Im getting closer to getting the tranny out. My friend is bringing his floor jack over tomorrow so we can lower it. I will keep yall updated if anyone cares.
#24
I should have dragged my camera out. And the guy that did the DIY in audiworld pulled his cat out from below. He said it was too hard to pull it from the top. I pulled it from the top. You just have to turn it the right way. I will pull my camera out because I will need to take a pick of something and ask what to do with it. Has to do with the shift rod I think is what I have been looking at.
#26
Well I have hit another issue. I am sitting there looking at all of the trans to engine bolts. all but three are accessible. Three of them screwed in with the head of the bolt towards the engine are blocked by the support for the engine. Either the guy that did the DIY had an earlier model and didnt have this issue or he figured out how to get them out. There isnt enough room to get a socket on a ratchet in the space given and the support blocks it JUST enough so that I cant get a wrench on them. Anyone have any ideas? It was hard enough getting a jack to lower the trans its going to be impossible to get an engine lift. Im beginning to think I am screwed.
#27
You have to lower the rear subframe to get to those lower bolts or you have to lift the motor/trans up slightly to get to them. You can leave those bolts out when you put the transmission back in, making pulling the trans out again much easier. All B5's have the same subframe and the same transmissions, so there is only going to be 1 DIY to cover all B5 A4's.
To lower the rear part of the subframe you have to remove the back 2 bolts and loosen the front 2 bolts.
To lower the rear part of the subframe you have to remove the back 2 bolts and loosen the front 2 bolts.
#28
There is also a shifter support arm that bolts to the transmission. It is the other arm that is next to the shifter linkage arm. It bolts to the transmission with a 6mm allen head bolt. Need to cut down the short end of a allen head tool to loosen it.
#29
You have to lower the rear subframe to get to those lower bolts or you have to lift the motor/trans up slightly to get to them. You can leave those bolts out when you put the transmission back in, making pulling the trans out again much easier. All B5's have the same subframe and the same transmissions, so there is only going to be 1 DIY to cover all B5 A4's.
To lower the rear part of the subframe you have to remove the back 2 bolts and loosen the front 2 bolts.
To lower the rear part of the subframe you have to remove the back 2 bolts and loosen the front 2 bolts.
Ok so there are two 12pt hex bolts (on the driver side axle) that are FUBAR. Tried vice grips notta, dremeled down one edge so maybe I could get some bite from a vice grip notta. I can only think of two more things to try. A)Pull the cv axel apart and go from there replacing any boots or such, but I don't know where to really start with that and afraid of messing up the axles. B)dremeling the heads of the bolts off and praying that I can move the axle up and continue on removing remaing bolt and replacing bolts as needed. Think either of these would work? Any other suggestions? I mean I am ready to start dremeling the hell out of this crap. Other thing is rear axle bolts wont budge. Got two of em out but I have a solution for that. Just let the tranny down and work those when I have more room.
On a lighter side and interesting discovery. I got all of the tranny to engine bolts out (except the three) and that was a BIOTCH. When I pulled the starter motor off I noticed a bunch of metallic shavings. Wasn't from the starter either. This out to be interesting. I will be working on what was talked about tonight tomorrow after work if I get a reply about these questions and keep yall updated. Thanks for all the help so far guys.
#30
Yes, the subframe is the front end of the car.
To lift the motor/transmission up you first have to unbolt the engine mounts and transmission mounts. Other wise all you will be doing is lifting the whole car up.
You dont have to remove the engine mounts, just unbolt the bottom of them and leave them mounted to the engine.
As for the bottom bolts holding the transmission to the engine. You want to leave 2 other bolt in place while you take out the lower bolts, 1 on either side of the motor will do. This way the transmission/motor are still bolted together. Then you can take out the 2 last bolts and start sliding the transmission back and then down. Make sure to keep the tail end of the transmission up higher then the bell housing side to keep the housing from hitting the coolant flange.
To lift the motor/transmission up you first have to unbolt the engine mounts and transmission mounts. Other wise all you will be doing is lifting the whole car up.
You dont have to remove the engine mounts, just unbolt the bottom of them and leave them mounted to the engine.
As for the bottom bolts holding the transmission to the engine. You want to leave 2 other bolt in place while you take out the lower bolts, 1 on either side of the motor will do. This way the transmission/motor are still bolted together. Then you can take out the 2 last bolts and start sliding the transmission back and then down. Make sure to keep the tail end of the transmission up higher then the bell housing side to keep the housing from hitting the coolant flange.