Which control arm should I get?
#1
Which control arm should I get?
So I need a new front right lower rear control arm, and found this one at ecs, http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/...oductID=205071 or this one at purems, http://www.purems.com/products/product.php/II=1266
I emailed purems and asked what hardware theirs came with and this was their reply:
What I' wondering is are botrh websites talking about the same ball joint nut? And if so, is the extra $10 worth it for the one from ecs?
I emailed purems and asked what hardware theirs came with and this was their reply:
Only a replacement nut in included for the ball joint threaded connection.
This is indeed the front suspension rear lower arm.
Thank you
PURE Motorsport
This is indeed the front suspension rear lower arm.
Thank you
PURE Motorsport
#2
RE: Which control arm should I get?
No and as a matter of fact you can find less expensive, better than OEM quality control arms on ebay. Here is just one example:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-A...spagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-A...spagenameZWDVW
#3
RE: Which control arm should I get?
ORIGINAL: fred2ka4
.....better than OEM quality...
.....better than OEM quality...
Look at the picture - one end had a threaded stud on it, the other a hole. The nut they give you is for the threaded ball joint end
stick with the one from purms not ebay crap kits
Edit:
Actually order THIS Febi and Meyle are both great brands - I would order the Febi due to price difference
#4
RE: Which control arm should I get?
BTW, those ebay kits that include all control arms, tie rod ends and swaybar links (basically all suspension on front end sans shocks/springs) go for $250 on ebay. The brand is "Hamburg Technic", supposedly German-made. I have the kit, installed it about 10K miles ago and all is well so far. Beware, some Febi stuff is made in Asia so you don't always get German quality with the price hike.
#5
RE: Which control arm should I get?
ORIGINAL: akielb
LOL
Look at the picture - one end had a threaded stud on it, the other a hole. The nut they give you is for the threaded ball joint end
stick with the one from purms not ebay crap kits
Edit:
Actually order THIS Febi and Meyle are both great brands - I would order the Febi due to price difference
ORIGINAL: fred2ka4
.....better than OEM quality...
.....better than OEM quality...
Look at the picture - one end had a threaded stud on it, the other a hole. The nut they give you is for the threaded ball joint end
stick with the one from purms not ebay crap kits
Edit:
Actually order THIS Febi and Meyle are both great brands - I would order the Febi due to price difference
I have searched on both ECS Tuning and Pure MS and neither of these sites claims to have a warranty for either of these kits. If you would suggest to someone to buy the Febi kit to save a little money, why not save a $100 dollars and go with another kit that is equally as good. I am not just suggesting this because of the price. I have had the DP kit on my car going on almost a year with no problems what so ever and my car handles great and is squeak free. After I did the control arm kit and a few other suspension mods, it felt almost as if the car was brand new.
It worked great for me and I only want to share my experience with other people because most of the time people are not willing to try something new unless someone else does it first. DP specializes in suspension parts and you can read their feedback as it is very high. I am not in the habit of leaving feedback until I am sure that the product I purchased works as described, not just because someone shipped it fast. Again I am only speaking on my experience with these parts as they have worked great for me.
#6
RE: Which control arm should I get?
I bought the FCP Groton control arm kit on ebay. They have good parts and great customer service. Might notbe the cheapest on ebay,butwhen you call them up, they will probably match theother ebay aftermarket prices.The 13 pc kit comes with all newbolts. You shouldget the pinchbolt if you are doing the uppers.Why are you onlyreplacing one of the lowers? Was the car in an accident? Usuallyall the arms wear out some-what evenly, so you'll be replacingthe others sooner or later. Might as well get it overwith -get the discount on the whole kit instead of paying for eacharm individually, and don't pay several times for the labor.
#7
RE: Which control arm should I get?
The reason I want to only replace the one arm is 1: Money, and 2: I slid into a curb during the winter at about 10mph w/ my steering wheel full-lock to the left, and that looks to be the only arm affected
#8
RE: Which control arm should I get?
ORIGINAL: andreigbs
BTW, those ebay kits that include all control arms, tie rod ends and swaybar links (basically all suspension on front end sans shocks/springs) go for $250 on ebay. The brand is "Hamburg Technic", supposedly German-made. I have the kit, installed it about 10K miles ago and all is well so far. Beware, some Febi stuff is made in Asia so you don't always get German quality with the price hike.
BTW, those ebay kits that include all control arms, tie rod ends and swaybar links (basically all suspension on front end sans shocks/springs) go for $250 on ebay. The brand is "Hamburg Technic", supposedly German-made. I have the kit, installed it about 10K miles ago and all is well so far. Beware, some Febi stuff is made in Asia so you don't always get German quality with the price hike.
I hope they last for you, but I would stay clear of Hamburg-Technic. Their engine mounts failed on my car in less than 100 miles and I've only read negative things about their suspension parts.
#9
RE: Which control arm should I get?
ORIGINAL: sineo
I hope they last for you, but I would stay clear of Hamburg-Technic. Their engine mounts failed on my car in less than 100 miles and I've only read negative things about their suspension parts.
I hope they last for you, but I would stay clear of Hamburg-Technic. Their engine mounts failed on my car in less than 100 miles and I've only read negative things about their suspension parts.
At the very least, this is an endurance test to see how long they last. The OEMs went bad around 80K, so we'll see how these last.
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