Thanks, I got the bracket into the keyed part of the camshaft. Things were looking great until the stupid carriage bolt (oiled) decided to snap off deep inside the camshaft at about 140 Nm (not ft-lbs). I'm not very happy right now, because I had to go back to the stealership to pay for some more bolts.

Is there anything I should be aware of concerning timing? I don't have a cam locking bar, but as of right now it doesn't look like I can do much more than eyeball the timing. I wish the camshaft sprocket was keyed...

Thanks for your help!

 

No it won't. Haynes for Audi/VW is a total WOMBAT. You will have wasted $25 in the short run and will have to spend a lot of time in confession after you have cursed out your Haynes manual.

The only manual good for our cars is Bentley. It's much more expensive than a Haynes, but you pay for what you get when it comes to service manuals.

http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=K1B1035
http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=K1A1059

Also Available at RossTech: http://www.ross-tech.com/Merchant2/m...gory_Code=Audi

For a 2.8, you need the cam-locking tool. http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail....od=N1A1009%2DA

 

Chickeneater, you can index the crank with the timing mark. If you remove the valve covers, at the back of the heads by the cam chain tensioners, there will be alignment marks. Just in front of the cam sprockets on the cam caps closest to the tensioners, you should see a small arrow cast into the cam cap. Rotating the cams will expose a small rectangular divot at the base of each cam. Line those up with the arrows and the cams are properly indexed. Index the crank pulley to the mark on the lower timing cover and install the timing belt. Do NOT guess at it - best case is your cams will be off just enough that the valves will be slightly open when the plugs fire and the car will just wheeze because it'll have no compression. Worst case, you'll be off too far and will mulch the valves.

 

If you can't get the sprockets to seat against the cams correctly you might have stripped out the threads in the cam. I had this happen to me a while back, those cam bolts CANNOT be torqued that tight. If thats what happened you can try to heli coil it, or buy a new camshaft.

 

Thanks ImTheDevil... I'll be sure to align it tomorrow.

auditech79, what torque do you recommend for camshaft sprocket bolts? Should I use teflon tape?

 

Excellent--looks like I got it all lined up! Thank you for providing that confidence... Now I just have to extract the bolt and wait for the stealership to get the new bolts...

 

65 NM is the spec in the factory manual, 75 NM max. If you exceed that you WILL strip out threads or break the bolt.

DO NOT USE OIL OR ANYTHING ELSE ON THE THREADS.

If the sprocket is still freewheeling at 65NM, something is wrong.

 

Wow... I double checked the torque setting in the manual I've got and it says 200 Nm.

It definitely felt really tight, and I'm inclined to trust you and not some dodgy book. Thanks

 

200 NM? Christ almighty no, no engine part should ever be that tight. Throw that book away.

 

Yeah, I'm definitely going to soak the book in fuel and send it in flames. And it will feel great.