So I have been reading on what I can do and what I can not. This is what I have done. A CAI, BOV, and a MBC. For the BOV I have it by the TB. I took the stock DV off and plugged it up. I made the CAI with out the hole where the DV gos. I'm using the same vac that was on the DV for the BOV. The BOV is not being recirculated. The MBC is hooked up between the turbo and WG. The n75 is plugged in but not hooked up with the MBC. I'm pushing 12-13 psi and holding 10psi. To my understanding theres this diode mod but its only for 2000+. Can some one give me a link to whats this is. I cant find it. Is there any thing I can do to go past 14psi. What is making it not pass that. I thought it gos into limp mode if you pass 14 psi. The car will cut out but will not go into limp. No CEL at all, just cuts out. Now I only have spent $15 on the car so far (pretty good). Next thing I was going to do is gut the cat. What should I expect from this. Turbo spool up faster (like it needs to), better top end? I'm just trying to understand what controls what. I know a chip is in order but I want to see what I can do with out one for now.

 

1- what year is the car. the diode mod is only for cars with MAP sensors.

2- throwing on an MBC and turning it up past 14psi without knowing what your doing and without a chip is a fantastic way to grenade your engine. its been covered so many times im going to let you search for more info about this.

3- gutting the cat will increase exhaust velocity because there is no longer the restriction in the stream. i noticed boost comes 200-300rpms sooner. you wont get any more top end. the turbo is way too small. it might even run out of breath sooner.

 

Its a 97. Now i ask this so I can turn up the psi to around 16-17. I will be getting a AFPR. The only thing I need to look at for a/f, knock and what not are the plugs. I wont know when it happens but I will see the after math. Means I can stop it from happening and what cyl its happening in. I do know how to take care of my motor and tune it as far as I can do so. I dont think I have a MAP (MAF). What is telling the ecu that I hit 14psi. Is there any way around it?

I figured the cat would make it spool faster but wouldn't it give you some top end. It would flow better through the rpm. Even if its 1bhp at 6k its still some thing.

 

come on ppl just give me a link to the diode mod. I'm an idiot or some thing, I just cant find one that explains it.

 

He wasn't kidding. I have a 97 and I can assure you there is no MAP sensor.
In the event that you still want to f*ck with it, here's a link to the vortex page with an explanation of the mod. have fun.

 

Thanks. Now whats reads the boost for 97. Is there a max air flow on the MAF? That kinda sounds weird but IDK.

 

well the MAF measures the M*** of Air Flowing through your intake. That data, in conjunction with the O2 sensors, is a fairly accurate way of controlling the air/fuel mixture. I'm not sure there's a good way to fake the diode mod on an MAF. The whole point of the diode mod is to trick the MAP sensor into sending a lower voltage signal to the ECU, (i.e. make it think you're pushing less air than you really are) so it doesn't send you into limp mode so soon, which lets you boost higher. saavy?

 

So why couldn't you have the maf read lower then it is. Bump up your fuel psi and get a wide band o2. The ecu will adjust timing to a point. What that point is idk. If you monitor and tune the best you can you will not blow it up.

 

1. Remove the CAI, BOV, and MBC and sell them.

2. Purchase a TT diverter valve from the dealer ($50 or so).

3. Purchase a GIAC chip from the GIAC group buy.

4. Enjoy better, more reliable performance than your original setup. Add Labree High flow cat, 2.5" down pipe, and at 2.25"+ exhaust for best results.

 

i dont think he has the money for all that... he said he only spent 15 dollars on his mods so im guessing most of them he already had laying around... so going ot a dealer and buying a chip and exhaust prolly arent an option for him lol