Beast Mode
#1
Beast Mode
Hey People,
Stay with me as this will not be easy to explain. So over the past few months my car has been running rough, stalls on itself when cold and warmed up, the car does not accelerate smoothly and the list can go on. What I have done so far. New Walbro 255 pump, thermalstat, new coolant temp sensor, MAF sensor, cleaned throttle body, fuel filter, FPR, ran some injector cleaner, new battery terminals, added another ground from battery. This all here is irrelevant to what the title says and I get by using the car just fine even with all the problems.
So the other day just as the car warms up I give it some solid pulls 1st through to 3rd and eventually get to a stop. I continue driving and the car feels entirely different, I mean completely, The blow off for what ever reason is so much louder, the car accelerates smoother, faster and boost seems to kick in a lot quicker and I mean a lot. So I'm driving thinking what the hell is going on here? I loved it, the car has never seemed better and I mean never, from the first day I started driving till now, the car has never ever felt this good. So I run a little test. I switch the car off and turn it back on but nothing, its back to how it was. So immediately after I take it for a test run to see if I can figure out what causes it to go into this mode (Beast Mode) as I have named it but nothing. So the following morning I start the car up , let it warm up, give some good pulls for a few minutes and bang its back into Beast Mode. I switch it back of then on. Its back to normal again and for the remaining time of the day I could not get it into the mode.
So far I have established that the car goes into Beast Mode shortly after the car warms up properly and then giving it some hard pulls, if the car remains warm for long enough and does not enter Beast Mode, it will not go into Beast Mode until cooled down then the process is repeated. I have worked out that once in beast Mode, it will remain in Beast Mode until the car is switched of.
So that's the story, anyone have any ideas on whats going on cause I am clue less and well I cant go taking it to a mechanic and describing this haha.
Any help is much appreciated.
Stay with me as this will not be easy to explain. So over the past few months my car has been running rough, stalls on itself when cold and warmed up, the car does not accelerate smoothly and the list can go on. What I have done so far. New Walbro 255 pump, thermalstat, new coolant temp sensor, MAF sensor, cleaned throttle body, fuel filter, FPR, ran some injector cleaner, new battery terminals, added another ground from battery. This all here is irrelevant to what the title says and I get by using the car just fine even with all the problems.
So the other day just as the car warms up I give it some solid pulls 1st through to 3rd and eventually get to a stop. I continue driving and the car feels entirely different, I mean completely, The blow off for what ever reason is so much louder, the car accelerates smoother, faster and boost seems to kick in a lot quicker and I mean a lot. So I'm driving thinking what the hell is going on here? I loved it, the car has never seemed better and I mean never, from the first day I started driving till now, the car has never ever felt this good. So I run a little test. I switch the car off and turn it back on but nothing, its back to how it was. So immediately after I take it for a test run to see if I can figure out what causes it to go into this mode (Beast Mode) as I have named it but nothing. So the following morning I start the car up , let it warm up, give some good pulls for a few minutes and bang its back into Beast Mode. I switch it back of then on. Its back to normal again and for the remaining time of the day I could not get it into the mode.
So far I have established that the car goes into Beast Mode shortly after the car warms up properly and then giving it some hard pulls, if the car remains warm for long enough and does not enter Beast Mode, it will not go into Beast Mode until cooled down then the process is repeated. I have worked out that once in beast Mode, it will remain in Beast Mode until the car is switched of.
So that's the story, anyone have any ideas on whats going on cause I am clue less and well I cant go taking it to a mechanic and describing this haha.
Any help is much appreciated.
#2
Sounds like your "normal mode" could be limp mode (5psi). Some questions:
1) did you check for boost leaks?
2) how old is your pre-cat O2 sensor?
3) which spark plugs are you running and what gap?
4) what DV is it that you have in the car?
1) did you check for boost leaks?
2) how old is your pre-cat O2 sensor?
3) which spark plugs are you running and what gap?
4) what DV is it that you have in the car?
#3
Nah normal mode the car still goes and boosts up to 17 psi, it's just that the throttle feels different, it's no we're near as smooth.
1- I don't think there are any boost leaks, the boost gauge seems to be as consistent as when I first put it on.
2- this is on my list and have not changed it yet nor do I know has it ever been changed.
3- I'm running NGK platinum, the gaping has been changed a few months ago when the fmic was installed and can't remember how much.
4- I'm running just a relocated blow off (no recirculation) at the moment, I have been running this for a long time now, never really had any problems until like 2 months ago, so I wouldn't say that the blow off is the cause to all these problems.
1- I don't think there are any boost leaks, the boost gauge seems to be as consistent as when I first put it on.
2- this is on my list and have not changed it yet nor do I know has it ever been changed.
3- I'm running NGK platinum, the gaping has been changed a few months ago when the fmic was installed and can't remember how much.
4- I'm running just a relocated blow off (no recirculation) at the moment, I have been running this for a long time now, never really had any problems until like 2 months ago, so I wouldn't say that the blow off is the cause to all these problems.
Last edited by george1546; 09-03-2013 at 06:51 PM.
#4
2) O2 sensor shouldn't be an issue in boost anyways, since it's only used for part-throttle.
4) Do you have another DV (recirculating only) you can try? I'm not doubting the BOV, just thinking it's best to check off everything from the list.
5) I wonder if the throttle body needs to be aligned? How's your idle in "beast mode" and "normal mode"?
4) Do you have another DV (recirculating only) you can try? I'm not doubting the BOV, just thinking it's best to check off everything from the list.
5) I wonder if the throttle body needs to be aligned? How's your idle in "beast mode" and "normal mode"?
#5
4- At the moment I don't have a spare dv lying around but I will see to it I get one.
5- How would I know if it needs alignment? Idle seems to be the same in norm and beast, needle drops, at times it drops to 500rpm but saves itself and sometimes it will just turn of as if I turned the key to off position, this happens both norm and beast.
5- How would I know if it needs alignment? Idle seems to be the same in norm and beast, needle drops, at times it drops to 500rpm but saves itself and sometimes it will just turn of as if I turned the key to off position, this happens both norm and beast.
Last edited by george1546; 09-04-2013 at 01:19 AM.
#7
I have another blow off lying around (not a DV) tried that by no difference as current blow off, the reason I put current blow off is because it lets out less out than the other one does. I'm trying to leave as much air in and not out. Yeah I need to get a DV and recirculate the air back and see if that helps. Will try and make a video to show you guys.
#9
4- At the moment I don't have a spare dv lying around but I will see to it I get one.
5- How would I know if it needs alignment? Idle seems to be the same in norm and beast, needle drops, at times it drops to 500rpm but saves itself and sometimes it will just turn of as if I turned the key to off position, this happens both norm and beast.
5- How would I know if it needs alignment? Idle seems to be the same in norm and beast, needle drops, at times it drops to 500rpm but saves itself and sometimes it will just turn of as if I turned the key to off position, this happens both norm and beast.
Ideally you would force a TBA through VAG-COM, but you don't have VAG-COM, right? If not, you can unplug the battery, leave it unplugged for 10mins or so, plug it back in, turn the key to the ON position, and leave it in the ON position without starting the engine for a few minutes.
The VAG-COM way is better, but the key way will usually work.
#10
5) You wouldn't necessarily know, but it sounds like your car may benefit from a TBA (throttle body alignment).
Ideally you would force a TBA through VAG-COM, but you don't have VAG-COM, right? If not, you can unplug the battery, leave it unplugged for 10mins or so, plug it back in, turn the key to the ON position, and leave it in the ON position without starting the engine for a few minutes.
The VAG-COM way is better, but the key way will usually work.
Ideally you would force a TBA through VAG-COM, but you don't have VAG-COM, right? If not, you can unplug the battery, leave it unplugged for 10mins or so, plug it back in, turn the key to the ON position, and leave it in the ON position without starting the engine for a few minutes.
The VAG-COM way is better, but the key way will usually work.