Well afterI got the whole fuel issue fixed I figured ou my timing was off.

Took the valve cover off after putting the engine at tdc and what do you know? My exhaust cam was one tooth off. Jeez, I don't know how I missed that but anyway, fixed it, and put the front end all back together. Car runs perfect.

I got the forge splitter in the mail today, threw it on and drive to Taco Bell and back. Sounds really nice, but the spring was way too soft, I went ahead and adjusted it a little, but ill fine tune that tomorrow. Tonight I was just glad I got the timing done right.

Break in time. Well I've been given different opinions on the matter, but the person I trust most says since I ran it at 2k for 30 min, and such, no I should drain the oil, put regular in and drive with no boost for 500 miles to make sure it all breaks in. He said I need regular oil for the metal to all wear in, since synthetic wouldn't allow that. What do you guys think?

Regardless I'm getting the oil changed tomorrow along with flushing the tranny, so I just figured id ask.

 

Ive heard it is a good idea to use reg oil for a while at the start, something about getting the seals to "seat".

 

Where did you find how to flush your tip? Ive been looking everywhere

 

Well I flushed it at work today, by hooking it up to the power trans flush machine. I used the two lines the go to the radiator from the trans and just ran em through the machine where they go from soft line to hard line in the front.

But what I did to full it up was took off the drain bolt on the bottom, 6 mil hex I think, and drained it, filled it up with the fill bolt on the bottom (17mm hex) and ran it. then I would drain it and fill it again just to flush it. So there are two ways. I mean, its gonna be like 80 bucks to do it yourself, after you run it through once. So if you have trouble, and you are gonna spill eveywhere, just head over to a shop. I know my goodyear does it for like 130.

If not dont be scared of taking off the 17, there is a tube that goes up and you can fill it with a gear pump through there. Just pump till it comes out the hole.

 

What did it cost to get your head redone? I'm thinking that mine needs a new head really badly, and hearing about how much trouble you had with just getting yours off makes me not want to try to rebuild mine alone.

I would want to do all new valve seals and such, pretty much replacing everything but the cams, provided they're in good shape.

This thread is awesome, by the way. I'm glad that everything has come through for ya.

-Cory

 

Well it was like just labor for an hour which came out to 100 at the local machine shop. But that didn't include the head set which came with all the gaskets and valve seals.

Also, Thanks, yeah my car is at 380 miles so far and still doing good. Can't wait till its done breaking in so I can boost. Its pretty hard not to do with the automatic.

 

Sitting around 620 miles now, and still doing good. Have some pictures of the timing fix and my dv I thought id throw up. Blew 50 buck on a cover, 30 on a strut tower brace, and scored a new cd player, and timing belt cover that I broke.

I also hit 10 lbs tonight, and damn im happy with this car.


Forge splitter



Engine bay before covers.



Timing fix time shennigans with morgan and loren




After shiny new cover


I love it when she tries to figure out what things do...