Hey guys,

I bought my B5 in 2003 when it had 43K on it. 116K on it now. Since day one, the auto transmission has always stayed in first gear when the engine is cold much longer than when it's warm. It's only during the initial "take off" that this occurs. As soon as the thing shifts into 2nd, it's fine from then on, and shifts nice and smooth. During this initial launch, the engine revs climb and the shift to second doesn't happen until I hit about 3,000 RPM.

If I sit there in the driveway and wait for the engine to go off high idle(aprox 1 minute, depending upon air temp) before I take it out of park, then this doesn't happen. Any thoughts on why it does this? Is this normal behavior?

Also, when I asked the stealer about five years ago if the Tiptronic auto trans fluid needed to be flushed and filled, he told me that it's a sealed system and that the fluid doesn't ever need to be replaced.

Is this true?

 

Sealed unit: that is the term used, yes. No dipstick. I don't know what the official change intervals are, but I would be concerned with over 100k on the same fluid.
As I learned through my current ordeal, the fluid level can be "checked" by taking out the filler plug (on the trans fluid pan; not the drain plug). Engine has to be warmed up and shifted through gears until the official temperature has reached, 95-113 deg F. Supposedly, the VAGcom tool will show the temperature.

a) If no fluid comes out, you the level is either ok or to low. Put a hose into the filler hole (needs to be fiddle through the inside side opening; if you need, I can take a picture tomorrow), and either use a pump or long hose with funnel, high above trans level to fill in fluid until it starts to drip out.
b) if fluid comes out, it is overfilled; let the excess drip out.

High rev before shifting up when cold? It could be a sign that your trans fluid level is low, and it takes a while until the system pressure is build up. I had similar behavior in all my cars when
- I lost trans fluid
- when it is cold

If you feel (and other support the opinion) that 100k on trans fluid is 'enough', you can either
- drop the pan, clean or replace the filter, refill trans with fresh fluid (book says 2.8 quart or so)
- drain the trans (drain plug). My trans guy said to for example disconnect the trans line going to the radiator, run engine (pushes most/all of the fluid out).
- take it to you trans shop and have them change/flush the unit.

Here is what my Haynes (1996-2001) says:

- pry off cap of the cap that secures the fill plug in its tube. (on trans fluid pan; both my trans didn't seem to have this (anymore?))

- remove plug (there is a BIG Allen type bolt; the largest Allen I have is “16” which is too small). I borrowed a special Allen from my trans shop, and needed a 4 ft tube as lever extension on the wrench to break it loose (PB Blaster soaked previously, of course).

- the short filler tube protrudes from the front left corner of the transaxle fluid pan.
- add fluid slowly until it begins to drip from the check hole
- install the check plug and fill plug.
- secure fill plug with new cap
- tighten check plug to torque

Torque:
Check/fill plug: 59 ftxlbs
Drain plug: 30 ftxlbs

Capacities:
Drain and fill: 2.7 quarts
From dry: 9.5 quarts

 

Thank you, I appreciate the lengthy response. That's very helpful.

 

I'm not doubting the accuracy of the info, just curious: Why such a big difference between the "drain and fill" capacity and the "from dry" capacity?

 

If you drain via drain plug, only the fluid in the pan seems to come out. Torque converter etc. stays full.

My trans shop said a DIY flush could be done by disconnecting a hose that goes to the radiator, run the engine/trans and most fluid comes out.

 

Thanks for the info!