Would this be the "engine timing" fuse? I just switched all 3 engine timing fuses, but the car still runs like a turd.

 

Go over every single fuse in the box by pulling it out and inspecting it. If they are all good remove the connectors on the ECM and look for any bent tabs/corrosion on them.

 

Ok, went over all the fuses and inspected the ecu and wiring harness. all good. I reset the ecu and cleared the codes.

I'm pretty sure my o2 sensors are bad, even though theres no code showing up for it. I ordered a new one.. Is there any chance my car will magically spring to life after I put the o2 sensor in? It won't even start.

When I VAG the car.. the ECT looks to be reading accurate temps.. So I don't know why I'm getting that code.

Things I have already done: Replaced plugs with bkr7e's with .028 gap, checked coil packs, cleaned MAF, replaced vac tubes (some not all), adjusted fuel pressure, checked fuses and ECU connection.

Also the codes for the n75 valve were just cuz I had unplugged the wires at some point.. I think.

ty for any advice anyone has. [:@]

 

do this open the vag com, go to engine - readiness, cycle through all of the sensors to see if any are not ready or failing.
if it was an o2 sensor you would get a no activity cel
then try unplugging your front o2 sensor and try cranking, if car runs fine it is that sensor, then disconnect maf and crank, if it runs normally it a bad or dirty maf
ect whoas i hate them.. could it be the car isnt getting the correct voltage

i was having simalar problems and solved it by replacing the rpm sensor, it was 80 buck and an easy fix. I have an extra brand new one sitting at the shop.

 

did you try adapting your throttle body?

 

For readiness in block 01, everything was green/passed yesterday. Tonight I reset the ECU, and after that a few of them were "failing or incomplete," but I think they're only failing or incomplete because the car hasn't started since I reset the ECU.

When I measured and logged block one on the engine screen, The o2 reading stayed at 0.0%, no matter what the rpm was. The car only ran for a few seconds though.

The rpm on the vag seemed to read accurate. Does this mean rpm sensor is fine?

How would I check for correct voltage? Vag?. or put a voltmeter across battery leads?

I did do a throttle body adaptation, and tried unplugging the MAF.

Things I have already done: Replaced plugs with bkr7e's with .028 gap, checked coil packs, cleaned MAF, replaced vac tubes (some not all), adjusted fuel pressure, checked fuses and ECU connection, throttle body adaptation, Unplug MAF test.

Thanks for helping.

 

remind me what block 1 is!
did you try unplugging the first o2 sensor?

well you can rule out the maf.
as far as checking the voltage i dont know.

I have heard of ect whoas being caused by the rpm sensor, and bad fuel pump

 

It's the one that shows your rpms, coolant temp, and oxygen levels.
I guess I'll just replace the ECT 7 bux aint bad.
I'm gonna try unplugging the o2 sensor first thing tomorrow, thanks.

 

rpm sensor or an impuls sensor. it is located on your tranny right next to your oil filter.
easiest way to test the voltage is the test ecm voltage value. basically "is the car getting the correct amount of voltage."

 

Yeah it could also be the engine speed sensor, (RPM) You can easilly check that with the vag com by looking at the RPM's while cranking. An O2 sensor won't fix your problem.
If the crank sensor (engine speed sensor) doesn't work there won't be any spark either, so you might wanna pull thecoils and check for spark on all cylinders.