Well, know-all: what IS it called then? The above is all I have and can go by. I would love if some know-all could actually tell me more facts about it. It came with the car and so far I was not able to dig up ANYTHING on it.

Yup. Where I come from, thinking is what brains are for.

 

The knowledgeable turbo experts I know (and in their shadow I would NEVER call myself knowledgeable as far as turbos go) taught me that there are T3 and T4 turbo (and T25 etc. for that matter). As far as I now, there is no T04 turbo.

The hybrids created from taking one side T3 (turbine) and one side T4 (compressor) are the T3/T4 or T3T4 or whatever (there is no language police or terminology guidelines).

Some turbo manufacturers created brand names, include such terms as T3T04E. From Turbonetics (example) website: "The T3/T4 Hybrid turbochargers consist of a T3 turbine section, and a T4 compressor section." The brand name they picked for example is: Model:T3/TO4E.

There are literally thousands of T3T4 turbo's from a variety of manufacturers out there with all kinds of geometries. Assuming that one particular one is used is dangerous, even so I accept that is is an educated guess that the poster here does have a 50 trim t3t4.

 

dude chill a bit, just call it a T.A.P. tune as that is the name of the company


and you are trying to argue with one of the turbo experts



even if i disagreed with mike, i would not try and act like he has no clue what he is talking about

 

Are you referring to my K03 boost plot? If so, please explain your "lol".

To give you something to start: this is a $200 invest over repair of K03. Show me your 'bang for buck meter'.

My 'goal' in words was: good low and mid range power; don't care for top end power. No other changes, no other mods at this time, no more money to spend.

This was fully accomplished. More power at ANY point of the RPM range, significant power increase is the only (for me) important band 1500-4000 rpm.

I do not have ANY idea what influences the curve: is the chip cutting in; getting lean and chip pulling back?

I know that the turbine side is quite smallish, which would explain the drop off in boost at higher rpm. Hence, my next evolution calls for a larger turbine (using a KKK K04 as the base).

On the other hand, having the desired power in the low to mid range (but nothing to show for for the drag strip queens here) is likely allowing me to avoid lean conditions at high rpm (otherwise, I had to caugh up mujo dinero for injectors and tune/chip). This way, I already had a year of fun, and can now look into extending the boost into higher rpm range.

This will also be the approach for the 2.7T.

I am anxious to see my turbo expert getting his hand on a 2.0T (he is currently looking for one) to do his magic (full turbo, Haltech tune, Mustang dyno).

 

That is useful. Thanks. Does anybody have any info my 'mystery' T.A.P. chip/tune (even descriptive info, like comparison to better known 'standard' tunes out there?

Yup. Agree. I know Mike (from here, not personally); very knowledgeable AND helpful.

If this is how I came across: my bad. Mike: no disrespect intended.
I would never imply 'no clue' as far as Mike is concerned! But I will always dare to disagree with whoever, IF I think I have a reason to...

 

Like TK said or meant to say, its called a crappy chip that not many people wanted/bought (although i realize you didnt buy it either and it came with your car). I just really dont know if I can read the words "ko3 custom optimized turbo" or anything pertaining to the hp or boost raise that chip gives you anymore. Every time someone asks a question about turbos or chips, you post your car's life story and imbed all kinds of your graphs and bullshit into the thread. Listen, its cool that you went a different route than most people and actually put some research and thought into a one of a kind setup. I respect that, trust me. Im just going nuts hearing it over and over.
I lol'd at your boost curve, because its not steady in the least bit. It doesnt hold any real boost at all, its like one big spike. It makes 13psi at 3k and the same at 5k, but doesnt hold anything inbetween. It just spikes and then begins the inevitable "fall on its face"...
To answer your other question, I apparently dont have a "bang for buck meter" because I have blown over $20,000 modding my car over the past several years, and its still sitting in my garage with no engine in it yet again.
As for your curve influencing question, a well designed tune will add in fuel and timing as evenly (smoothly not equally) as possible, which in turn should even out your boost curve. You have to factor in way more than just that, such as flow characteristics, cam lift, engine speed, injector duty cycle etc. But looking at your chart, it would appear you need a retune for the mods you have, or the chip wasnt all that great to begin with.

 

You are talking turbine housing flange sizes which do come in T25, T3, T4 and T6 sizes.
So lets get that straight so everyone knows the difference. T04 is the cold side which is why it is listed after the T3/. lol

Here from the Full-Race web site
That there is a Garrett journal bearing turbo.

Now please feel free to call up Geoff the owner of Full-Race and tell him he has NO clue about turbos. lol

To even add just to show you how little you might actually know about turbos.

Here from the actual Garrett web site showing a listing for a T04Z which happens to be the first turbo that Garrett used the .70 a/r compressor housing on and then used on the GT35r.

Odd thing is here are 2 listings on the turbobygarrett.com web site showing 2 T04 turbos.
Turbochargers > BB T-Series > T04ZR > 740759-2
and
Turbochargers > BB T-Series > T04BR > 757197-1

So I guess you need to call up Garrett and tell them that there is no such thing as a T04

I dont just listen to people, I actually look things up my self too. lol

Odd thing is that most people think the GT for Garrett turbos means they are BB turbos, when in fact the GT has to do with the compressor wheel design. It is actually the R at the end which states it comes with a BB CHRA.

 

That company no longer exists, it went out with the dinosaurs. lol


BTW ever heard of Occam's Razor?

Some times you just have to not over think things.

 

I personally think 13 psi at 3k is great. I have seen cars that make 600 hp and do not produce more boost/torque/power at 3k.

For those of us here that are NOT looking for 600+ hp out of an 1.8 and do NOT want to spent $1000 or $20,000 on their turbo upgrade;and for those of us here that are simply facing the 'bad turbo, what now' question, I think my approach deserves to be mentioned.

Since it is a bit more difficult to describe what I did and the results obtained than saying "I went to the big old turbo store and slapped a G2871R on, bought whatever stuff the guy said I need, had him put it on and wash the car. Look what nice car I have", it takes up a bit more space, granted. And I may have overdone it, i.e. suggesting my approach to more posters than applicable or deserved. I take that.

 

I think it is just meant to be used with a stand alone. I will most likely pull it off and just use my HKS EVC4 boost controler like I have for the last 9 years. But have been thinking of having 034 put a controller on so it is controlled by their stand alone.

Yeah I will most likely be pulling off my Tial 50mm to use the built in BPV. If I like that then I will pull the cold side pipe which is 2.75" and have ER make me one that is 3" and also make the outlet on the FMIC larger. I should be ok on the hot side pipe since it is 2.5" and the outlet on that EFR turbo is 2.5".

Were you interested in my cold side pipe with the Tial 50mm BOV?