this....


when he first started posting everyone thought he was talking about chis tapp.... then it was figured out he wasn't

 

But then your screwed when you upgrade the rods. Better off with the larger a/r and just running slightly less boost. Boost threshold issues are for people that dont know how to drive a turbo car. Driving in the power band is what smart people do. lol

 

Well only noobs would think that

TAPP = Tapp Auto = Eurodyne

TAP = T.A.P. = Total Audi Performance = TAP1 = No longer in business

Even when I was a noob I wouldn't touch their crap. Kind of like ESS lol

 

Well you could also just buy another hotside for the turbo later on when needed. In the grand scheme of things, whats another $150? I bet a .48 has a better CAPS time, but thats if your ghey enough to build a car to set a CAPS record lol. Its also pretty common for people to have different turbos/setups on the same car for different applications. Like how 034 changes out their turbo for every category of an event, which isnt really "run what ya brung" in my mind. I'm thinking of getting a 1.06a/r for my 35r to change out in place of my .82a/r when i want. Change the tuning via a toggle switch.

 

The only A4 I have seen running a .48 sucked big time. They couldn't get any real power out of it even while being tuned on a dyno and it didn't spool up all that great either.


No real reason to go 1.06 on your GT35r. I have a friend that did just that and it spooled up later and didn't really do anything to his peak power. He even makes less power then I do with my .82 which was pushing around 650whp. I never made the switch since others told me it wouldn't change anything other then make my power band smaller.

 

Interesting, I didnt know that. Seems like it would at least up the peak power, or hold better.

 

I completely maxed out my GT35r with the .82 pushing 37psi. The larger a/r wasn't going to do anything but maybe move my power band to the right a little.

 

Well you could go solid lifter, but at that point the small gain from more rpm in a bigger turbine housing wouldnt be worth it i guess. Whens your EFR gettin in, and which one did you get?

 

Solid lifters weren't going to help me with my GT35r. At 650whp it was already starting to peak way too early, down around 6500 rpms and I was hitting the finish line at 7500 rpm.

Still waiting to see the finished manifold setup for the EFR and I am going with the 83mm which is the EFR 8374. It has a flow rating that is 14 lbs/min more then the 3582.

3582 vs 8374
Compressor wheel
IND - 61.4mm vs 62.6mm
EXD - 82mm vs 83mm

Turbine wheel
68mm vs 74mm

Flow rate
65 lbs/min vs 79 lbs/min

 

Thats such a sick turbo. Im jealous and will eventually probably buy one. How does the boost solenoid interact? Do they sell a controller specifically for it, and is it only usable with standalone tuning? Or could you just leave the n75 plugged in and run this one like you would any controller? Also, you want to get rid of your tial 50mm and possibly your hotside piping now that you wont need it?