Ok so went to get a smog test in Communist California. Went to a test only station because i know the guy and can trust him. Car passes emissions but will not communicate with smog test computer on portions of test. NOW I CANT GET MY TAGS
There are no mods except a K&N air filter
ANY ideas on this? what part and how much will cost?
I would like to avoid dealership because they are a ripoff
Soo fried over this car! Already rebuilt and replaced head over timing tension failure, heater core hoses along with water flange and brakes Wish I could drive it off cliff if i didnt have soo much money into it

 

Recently had the battery disconnected? Sort of sounds like some of the stuff isn't in readiness mode.

 

YES! my 2000 A4t quattro was garaged for 3 months
battery went dead
I tried to start wouldnt turn over so i disconected leeds on battery, charged, then reconnected
Radio is in safe mode

 

pleaseTell me more about rediness mode! i build muscle car engines so i know alot about motors but not so much about all the electronic parts of my motor and car

 

The car has a series of tests that it runs when you start up the car. If you unplug the battery the ECU loses the data and must rerun these tests. it takes miles and a little time for the ECU to run some test such as the O2 sensors run a test to make sure the heated O2 works properly. that takes time for the sensor to heat up. Just go drive it around and the tests should pass. It should be about 10-15miles for the tests to pass. if at that point it doesnt pass you might have something wrong with a sensor within the emissions system or a leak.

 

where at in ca do you live??? what year is the car? rediness can be set by driving 40+ miles the car will do "self test"

Misfire (continuous)
Fuel Trim (continuous)
Comprehensive Components (continuous)
Catalyst (CAT)
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR)
Evaporative (EVAP)
Oxygen (O2) Sensor
Secondary Air
Heated Catalyst
Air Conditioning (AC) System
O2 Sensor Heater

these are all apart of the OBD2 system not every car has all of them... if you are close to the stockton/ manteca area you can bring your car to the dealership i work at(cough cough ford cough) where i can ensure that you get trust worthly techs. if you half to go to a test only after its fixed... then go back to you guy.

on another note i know that the dmv will give you a grace period to get your car running right.

 

Like they said, its the car and ecu running through multiple tests since memory loss from the battery. I used to have bad issues with this but the easiest way to get a car "ready" is; COLD start (gotta be cold start), drive 35mph for 5 minutes, immediately jump on the highway keeping the car about 55mph, after being at 55 mph for at least 10-15 miles let off the gas and COAST off the exit ramp. Turn around and jump back on the highway and head back home. Just make sure its a cold start (also turning radio on, blower (heat), rear defrost has something to due with the load of current) and jump on the highway and back .... youll be good !

 

Ok first off I just set up this Acount on here and havent had time to post pictures and info on my Audi 2000 A4 1.8t Quattro. Secondly I would like to say THANK YOU to all who replied on my post. I tried to get car into ready mode at dealership. Found that the ABS MODULE was shot. I knew this already since I had rebuilt brakes compleatly using only audi parts and still the ABS light would blink on console. So I knew it had to be the ABS MODULE that was out. The thing I learned today is that IF the ABS module is broken the car CANNOT RESET TO ready mode causing it not to communicate with smog test computer. I FEEL STUPID GRRRRR.. The fix is send to MODULE MASTER for rebuild than have dealer install. Thanks to all for the posts fell free to hit me up anytime all with anything do with these money pit cars if i can help I will .