Posted this on another thread too. Need help.

Hi, new to the forum. Bought a 2000 A4 1.8 Quattro for my son three months ago. Has 190,000 Kilometers. Body and Interior are impeccable. But since the car was in storage for 8 months this last year, mechanically it needs some work, I know.

I had the car inspected last week after the summer vacations from local Audi dealer. When I bought it I had a report from the previous owner issued by a VW/Audi dealer.

I have been told by recent dealer who checked it out that there was 4 engine fault codes that popped up.
1675 P0411 Secondary Air System, Incorrect flow detected
17544 P1136 Long Term Fuel Trim. System too lean
17704 P1296 Malfunction in cooling system sporadic
17521 P1113 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Internal resistance too large.

Results are below.

1. I know the T belt was done last year by the previous owner (have copy of invoice from independent garage), but when Audi did the inspection they also checked the car to conform to an Audi Bulletin. They say T belt is cracked and needs to be replaced asap, $550 just for the belt job, no water pump

2. Another $305 for the valve cover gaskets and cam adjuster gaskets.

3. Dealer also said I needed to replace all the secondary air system, Kombi valve, L tube and vacuum tube $475.

4. Oxygen sensor. Another $708.

5. Coolant Sensor $163

Feels like I am being taken to the cleaners.

I found a good site to order parts Autohaus Arizona, prices seem very competitive compared to the dealer. Need some advice on cost for labor or hours. Just to keep everyone honest here.

My son had some problems this week starting the car, very sporadic, two days no problem and then 1 day it is off and on. It kinda of chokes and seems to start but does not. I checked when it happened to me once, I took care not to crank the engine till the starter burns out. Just tried it two three times for a 5-6 seconds and the engine starts after that. Does anyone have an idea if this is new problem is related to the O2 sensor and air system the dealer said I should get done?

Any advice and suggestions are welcome.

VIN WAUDC28D6YA049329.

Joe

 

You should have those fault codes cleared and then rescan after a week or so to see what if any came back. Those codes could be old and irrelevant. As for the hard starting- If it's only on a cold start, suspect the engine coolant temp. sensor.

Don't worry about the secondary air pump/combi valve, etc. unless you need to have the car inspected for emissions. It's just for cleaner emissions during the first 45 seconds or so on a cold start.

Coolant temp sensor is like $15us and simple to DIY

Valve cover gasket is $20us and is a simple DIY

You can unclip the front timing belt cover and pull it back to check the belt health. If cracked, it is a cheap part obviously, and not a simple DIY, but with tools and time, it's not bad at all. If you chose to do anything yourself, there are plenty of DIY articles we can help you with.

 

Thanks for the advice.

I will get the engine coolant sensor online. The T Belt I will check it out this weekend.

I have tools, obviously not like a pro mechanic, but not bad and have done repairs myself on other cars.

Where can I find the DIY links for T belts?

Again thanks for the quick reply.

Joe

 

https://www.audiforums.com/forum/diy-do-yourself-55/diy-valve-cover-gasket-tomritt-8418/
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng.html
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng35.shtml

 

Look at my recent write up on ECT sensor. may want to buy at dealer.

Because of that Audi bulletin on the T Belt, I'm guessing the dealer will ALWAYS say you need to change. I might go to another indy shop and have the recent t belt checked again. I can't imagine it would only last one year.

My oxygen sensor (pre cat, the important one) was bad and I was spitting gas out of the exhaust. But, clear codes and check again. And I've heard that the ECT can affect starting.

Good luck

 

Thanks for all the info. Was not able to work on the car this weekend as my son had it and he was out the whole two days. Need to do this soon. Will advise results.

Thanks
Joe

 

if you need to pass emissions, drive up to the test facility with the car all warmed up. leave it running. they will pull it in and as long as the check engine light isnt on they wont care/notice that your SAI system isnt working. atleast in my state thats how it works.

and $708 for o2 sensors?!?! they are about $150 each online, your car has 2- one before and one after the catylitic converter (they are different before and after), and you can buy an o2 sensor wrench from autozone for $10. its a very strait forward job to install them, just find where they are, unclip the old ones, unscrew them with your shiney new wrench. do the reverse for the new ones. make sure you get the front and rear sensors in the right place though.

 

Hi,

Been a while since I was here. Your advise worked out last time and all repairs done.

I have a new one. This is something that has been going on for a while though, I did not mention this last time.

When you brake with the car, the ABS kicks in 80-90% of the time. I.e. the pedal under the foot kicks back and you here it.

Error code on report VAG - COM.

8EO614111A
ABS/EDS 5.3 Quattro D10
Coding: 0273004284
Shop: BB2434
No Fault Code.

Can you guys point me in the direction. I have read many stories about the model making defect, and may places to fix them from $50 to $400.

Is is the module or the Pump. THe P/N at the top 111A is for the Pump.

What do you think?

I thank you again in advance.

Joe

 

Welcome back, glad the guys here left such an impression to bring you back when you ran into another problem. The vast wealth of experience and knowledge here is astounding. I'm going to take a stab in the dark here, but it sounds like your sensors are out of place. Search for ABS sensors and you might find a thread on how to adjust them. It sounds like the sensors aren't picking up the rotation of the wheels when you step on the brake, so it thinks they're not turning at all.

 

I responded to that new thread you started.