Good. Can you tell me if your A4 rolls in 1st like I described above?


Thanks for your help!

 

No and either should yours. This happens when the clutch disk is not being fully released and ends up dragging on the flywheel/PP and making the car creep.

 

Update.

When I went to check on the slave cylinder I noticed that the left transmission bracket was snapped in half. I replaced that hoping this will fix the issue but it didn't. The slave and the master seem to be working fine with no leaks or anything. After taking a car for a slightly longer test drive just in second gear, I noticed that the clutch slips quite badly. So my next step is putting in a new clutch. I hope that when I drop the transmission I will be able to see what is causing this issue.

My question is about the different clutch models for my engine type. Namely, I have the 97 2.8 with the 12v AFC engine and I found a LUK clutch kit that fits A4's from 97 till 01 but it says its for the AHA engine. The LUK catalog lists two different part numbers for the AFC and AHA engines but are those really different?

 

The clutch kits for any of the 2.8's should be the same, it is the flywheels that are different between the 12 valve and the 30 valve.

 

Thats what I thought. This LUK catalog just threw me off: http://www.provenforce.com/My_Homepa...log%5B1%5D.pdf (page 14)

Wouldn't a different flywheel warrant a different clutch?

Also, my friend mentioned that you have hookups or are selling clutch kits. Is that true? I'm on a budget so looking for something close to OEM.

 

No it wouldn't warrant a different clutch, the difference between the 2 flywheels has to do with the trigger wheel. One of them comes with a trigger wheel the other one doesn't.

Yes I can, www.ringer-racing.com

 

And the saga continues.

After scoring a good deal on a LUK clutch I went and removed the transmission. This was my first time doing something like this so I took my time. When I finally got it out, I found myself looking at a destroyed clutch plate, messed up flywheel, and a pressure plate snapped in 3 places. I was quite happy at that point, figuring that I found the source of my problems. Took the flywheel to get it resurfaced, and got it back in a beautiful shape. Eager to go for a test drive, I bolted everything at a much faster pace than it took me the first time. And of course, the problem didn't go away. The clutch still wouldn't disengage. Having checked the hydraulic system and the slave about a thousand times I was stumped and pissed off so I left the car alone for a week. In that time I was looking over some pictures online, and then it hit me. I forgot to change out the pilot bearing. I pulled the tranny out again to find a hole where the pilot bearing would normally sit. My guess is that the guys at the resurfacing place removed the old one. I put the new bearing in and put everything back together. This time the clutch works beautifully and I feel like if I had to remove this transmission out again, I could do it blindfolded.

Moral of the story, before you start doing major car work, at least know what parts you are replacing.


Now I can move on to the next two issues I'm having with this car.
First of all, there is a considerable coolant leak somewhere right above the oil pan. It's dripping of off the front and the driver side of the oil pan. It leaks more right after the car has been running, but also when its just sitting there. It will drain the whole coolant reservoir in roughly a day or two. I can't see the source of the leak from the top or the bottom.

This next issue is possibly related to the last one. After I turn on the car, about 30 seconds in, the red oil temp light starts flashing and beeping. This is way too early for the engine to build up any considerable amount of heat. The reason I think those are related, is because the oil temp sensor is right in the area where the coolant leak is.


I'm not sure if I should make a new thread with those two issues, cause the tranny one has been resolved now.

 

Wait, didn't your Pilot bearing go into the center of the crank flange?

So it wouldn't be possible for them to remove it from the flywheel during resurfacing.

 

My pilot bearing was in the flywheel itself, 2.8 12v.

As for the coolant leak, I would strongly advise against driving it, don't overheat your heads over a known issue! Pressure test the system, you will likely have to start removing things in order to diagnose the leak. A nice sized inspection mirror and a bright flashlight go a long way.

 

I thought it was supposed to go into the crank but when I removed the flywheel the second time there was nothing in the crank. Since it was impossible for the pilot bearing to just disappear, I started looking for pictures online and I found one of a 2.8 flywheel with a pilot bearing in the center. Apparently the 2.8 are different than the 1.8 in that respect.

I was very tempted to go for a test drive, but I stopped myself and left the car on the jack stands. So no, I won't be overheating it. Also, the leak is not bad enough for the car to overheat. I let it idle for a long while, and the temperature remained constant. Does the oil temp gauge go up as quickly as the coolant one? I didn't notice any significant change when it was just idling.

After I do the mirror check, I will start off with removing the oil cooler and checking the seals there.