I believe you can swap out the motor that runs the blend door if you pull off the Driver side knee bloster and most of the center console. But the blend door itself is almost accessable in this picture:

 

Motor itself works codes for blockage sorry so broke off track or blocked but no way other then dash removal

 

Yea I think my picture tells the story. If there is really something wrong with the blend door, you have to go another hour past that picture to get that whole HVAC box out of there.

 

That's what I thought but before my whole incident I had decent heat and now I don't it's just odd you think after new rad water pump thermostat and flush it would be burning do you think maybe there is just a a bundance of **** in the heater core and the coolant flows in and out but just flows around the blockages?

 

I don't think you know yet. You drove it for what......one or two heat cycles since you got a good stat in there? On my 99.5 I can show the water temp on the Climate control. Even after that hits 90C, I notice the heat from the vents still rises for another 15 minutes or so before it's really hot. I think you need to drive it more before you decide it's still broken.

 

Ok ya only 2nd drive first was

 

Only from the shop to my house and that was all I'll check see if it burped and needs coolant

 

Ok so driving home from work heat working great running steady at halfway and then all of a sudden smelt coolant and the resv is overflowing. Temp was steady not overheating

 

Ouch. This thing is going all over the place now. That seems more like a head gasket symptom. When the resevoir overflows when the temp is not that hot, either the cap on the resevoir has gone bad, or you're getting exhaust pressure blowing into the coolant. I'd swap out the tank cap and/or get a sniffer test to check for exhaust in the coolant.

 

It does it when it's at half way I swap bottle and cap with a spare one I'll see how it goes