One thing that seems to be strange (can someone reconfirm that is is NOT supposed to show RPM values when engine not running) is that the RPM value in VAGcom moves with the gas pedal motion (ignition on), see earlier logs posted here..

What can be checked (sensors, connectors, wires)?

 

In the meantime, I have tried a lot of things:
- installed new crankshaft sensor: no change
- took the Engine Speed (RPM) sensor off, received error code
- reinstalled RMP sensor: now have RPM (150 rpm) signal when cranking (in VAGcom engine module, group 3)
- RPM do NOT change anymore with throttle (and engine not running). This is an error caused in VAGcom (or ECU) if more than one group is 'active' in a module (I had selected for example 01, 02, 03 at the same time).

We unplugged the 2 transmission connectors; received an error code.
Plugged back in. still have one error code in VAGcom transmission module:


Could this error cause 'no spark'?
How can I fix this "brake light switch". Where is it located?
Pressing the brake pedal is activating the shifter lock relay (audible, and light on shifter console turns off), so at least one switch (are there more brake pedal switches?) is working.

The only other errors are HVAC and Airbag (see latest log below).

The MIL light is still not coming on when ignition is turned on. I ran the output test in VAGcom (Instrument module, output test sequence, but I don't see that it tests the bulb; better said: I don't know if the output test sequence is supposed to turn the MIL light on). Can someone post the VAGcom instructions for output test of the MIL light?

We manually (spark plug out) tested for NO SPARK. I haven't checked "NO FUEL" yet (need to pick up the Noid light again).

I bought another ECU, but I would be surprised that the ECU is causing the issue (VAGcom does not show anything that would point at the ECU). I ran several output tests (transmission clicks valves through, engine module outputs seem to audibly work, etc.). I have the control module code saved (in case swapping ECU requires recoding of the new ECU).

I have not replaced the cam sensor yet; checks seem to confirm that it is working, and I am not sure if the cam sensor would cause the ECU suppress spark.

Now that we have an RPM signal, what else may cause 'no spark'. Assuming 'no fuel' in addition (to be confirmed again, but that's what we had last time) and 'no MIL'.

What else to check?


---

No Faults Found

Thursday,02,December,2010,14:06:15:22662
VCDS Version: Release 10.6.2

Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01V-927-156.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 8D0 927 156 J
Component and/or Version: AG5 01V 2.8l2V US D89
Software Coding: 00000
Work Shop Code: WSC 00000
VCID: 3469E80D2E47
No Faults Found

or DTCs not supported by controller
a communication error occurred

VCDS Version: Release 10.6.2
Data version: 20101123

Thursday,02,December,2010,15:11:34:22662

Chassis Type: 8D - Audi A4 B5
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 25 35 37 45 55 56 57 67 75 76 77

Mileage: 211470km/131401miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: None
Part No: 8D0 906 266 B
Component: 2,8l V6/2V MPI OBD2 D01
Coding: 01251
Shop #: WSC 06325
VCID: 2B5BF371F379

No fault code found.
Readiness: N/A

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01V-927-156.lbl
Part No: 8D0 927 156 J
Component: AG5 01V 2.8l2V US D89
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 3469E80D2E47

2 Faults Found:
00293 - Multi-function Switch (F125)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00526 - Brake Light Switch-F
27-00 - Implausible Signal

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 4D0-907-379-ABS.lbl
Part No: 4D0 907 379 J
Component: ABS/EDS BOSCH 5 7679
Shop #: BB 37679
VCID: 356FD509253D

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8L0-820-043-2D.lbl
Part No: 8L0 820 043 D
Component: A4 KLIMAVOLLAUTOMAT_D75
Coding: 04162
Shop #: WSC 06325
VCID: 29570979F985

4 Faults Found:
01297 - Sensor for Vent Temperature; Footwell (G192)
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus
01296 - Sensor for Vent Temperature; Center (G191)
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus
01206 - Signal for Duration of Ignition Off Time
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
01582 - Signal for Coolant Temperature
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8A0-959-655.lbl
Part No: 8A0 959 655 D
Component: Airbag V AUDI D00
Coding: 00127
Shop #: WSC 06334
VCID: 3469E80D2E47

4 Faults Found:
65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error
00-10 - - - Intermittent
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
00588 - Airbag Igniter; Driver Side (N95)
32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent
01025 - Trigger for On Board Diagnostic Lamp; Malfunction
31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8D0-919-0xx-17.lbl
Part No: 8D0 919 035 G
Component: B5-KOMBIINSTRUMENT D08
Coding: 00262
Shop #: WSC 02032
VCID: 2E5DFA65C06B

No fault code found.

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------

 

At the onset of the project (replace bad transmission caused by trans cooler leak in radiator, install new radiator), I looked up what trans I need.

1996 Audi A4 2.8 quattro automatic

Based on VIN and Year:
WAUEA88D0TA209419
Engine code (5th): A (indicates 1997 SOHC according to Haynes manual)
Model year (10th): T (indicates 1996)
Built date (sticker): 03/96

Looking for used trans (car-part.com etc.), they all show transmission code CJP and offer 1996 and 1997 compatible years.

I found a CJP out of a 1997 and bought it. After problems started, I took photos from both transmission (to upload to forums etc.) and found that the new trans was in deed a 5HP19, code CJP. BUT THE OLD TRANS WAS CODE DRN (which based on my info is not supposed to be in the car).

1997 A4 2.8 quattro auto could have:
A.T., 2.8L, Quattro, code CJP
or
A.T., 2.8L, Quattro, code DRN

I don't know how the DRN got into my 1996 (and the built date is not even close to model year change).

I also don't know if the trans has anything to do with spark, fuel etc (but know that if I disconnect the trans connectors, it won't crank; also can run output test in VAGcom, trans module and valves are clicking; and VAGcom runs error code check)

Just want to get input to rule out more potential sources for the problem.

 

My Engine Speed (RPM) sensor is/was located on the driver side near, mid way up of the ENGINE block.

In Bentley is a photo showing another location of the crank, on the driver side of the TRANSMISSION housing (currently an open hole), that I found with search function.

Could that refer to the 30V (NOT AFC) 2.8 liter engine? Can someone confirm? Again, just wanting to rule out stuff.

Text: G28 Engine Speed (RPM) sensor (2.8 ltr. Engine): in transmission bellhousing, driver's side, front; mounting boss shown (w/out sensor)

 

I can't find a good, readable pin out for the ECM connectors. For continuity (and diode test, voltage test, resistance test, etc.), I could use a good diagram that shows the connector letter and the numbers of the individual pins.

Can someone post a good one for my ECM
(Bentley Code J192, ECM 8D0 906 266 B)?

 

Here is the status update from yesterdays activities:
- check fuses in driver side door fuse panel: ok
- confirm RPM signal in VAGcom when cranking
- confirmed no codes (transmission code gone with foot on brake pedal)
- put NOID light on injectors: have fuel
- confirmed: NO SPARK
- installed new cam sensor G40 on rear head of driver side cylinder: no change
- ran output test with VAGcom in instrument module: did NOT see MIL lamp come on (like burnt out? also did not hear chime)
- ran output test in more modules (engine, trans; all seem (audible) good)

no spark trouble shooting done:
- ignition power output stage N122: 3 pin connector: should have battery voltage against ground with ignition on: NO
- 4 pin connector: check ground: OK
- signal check: connected NOID light between connector Ground and 1,2, 4, cranking: NO LIGHT
- wire check: checked resistance from 4 pin connector to ECM B5-7: values: 15, 20, 50 Ohm. High, possibly caused by crocodile clamps and very thin steel pin (for ECM plug). ????

Questions:
a) should NOID light light up with signals coming from ECM?
b) Is resistance in wire from 4 pin to ECM unusally high?
c) Should we see battery voltage on 3 pin no matter what ECM or sensors are doing?
d) essentially: are we not getting spark SIGNAL or problem in supplying ignition with POWER.

I need urgent suggestions what to check/do next?

 

HE END - for now on this subject

Guys, I learned a lot.

Engine is running (transmission pissing).

What it was you ask? Glad you ask, love proofing myself to be an ***.

THE BLACK AND DARK BROWN (ICM) CONNECTORS WERE SWITCHED.

When talking about this possibility ("are all those connectors in the right place?") we answered to ourselves: they are coded, and the wires wouldn't reach any other way anyway!

More than 2 weeks (20 mile round trip each time) of 4 hours per day later, the problem is solved.

This is NOT how it is supposed to look like:

 

Engine started right away. For the first few minutes, there was a LOT of valve clatter (scary) that went away.
Since I installed a new radiator (the leak of the trans cooler allowed coolant to get into the trans and killed the wear parts in there (totally slipping), I only filled it with water; will run for a bit, then flush out and fill with coolant.
The transmission I installed was used. So I plan to check the fluid level. I decided to use the Mobil 1 synthetic ATF, NOT the German no name for $20/quart. A few weeks back when getting ready for the trans change, I read up on the various forums, and it seems that Mobil 1 (and some others mentioned as well) performs just a good. Ditto with coolant (the modern coolants are now ALL suitable for the alu engines (that was an issue in the past). The fancy Audi stuff's fancy (=expansive) chemistry allows for longer run times (100k vs. the usual 30k). Nothing else. Since coolant changes are part of the regimen, I don't mind the change in 2-3 years.

But regarding trans: I have lost (small leak over weak, today when starting (the one trans line was not seated properly) a ton of fluid. I do NOT know what fluid the previous owner used (it look reddish, but they probably all do?). Can I MIX the Mobil 1 with the remainder of what's in there?
Draining the fluid entirely out of the system could be accomplished by disconnecting the trans fluid line where it goes into the radiator, and then run the engine, which pumps it out (draining via drain plug in the pan only removes a very small portion). I have read that draining all is not necessarily a good thing, since some of the 'pigments' (from the friction discs) are actually helpful. I would prefer 'adding' over 'total change' if feasible.

Can I add to whatever fluid is in?

What is the process? Remove large plug in pan (I found the giant hex bit and was able (with a 6 ft extension) to break the plug loose. Snake a hose through (up and sideways through the 2 openings) and pump ATF in until it drips out. Put plug back in, run engine a bit (to suck fluid from shallow pan into the system), shift through gears. Fill until drip, repeat. Repeat process until no fluid can be added anymore.

Is there a temperature (warm up) needed? I remember reading to even monitor the trans fluid temp with VAGcom?

 

Good to hear its running!!

Yes it has to be filled to drip at a certain temp.

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=339022

4. After engine has been running for 15 minutes, use a VAG and measure ATF Temp in Group 4 under measuring blocks in the transmission module. ATF fluid temp should be around 30-45deg C. If you don't have a VAG-COM, I suppose you could just wait for 15 minutes. I waited until the VAG read the fluid temp at 38deg

 

I found some info and Bentley that is similar, see links below:
http://i853.photobucket.com/albums/a...ill_Page_1.jpg
http://i853.photobucket.com/albums/a...ill_Page_2.jpg
http://i853.photobucket.com/albums/a...ill_Page_3.jpg
http://i853.photobucket.com/albums/a...ill_Page_4.jpg
http://i853.photobucket.com/albums/a...ill_Page_5.jpg