I have had the hood latch problem myself and I used the method you are recommending - and I agree that it's the easiest and best method, but if you read the man's post correctly and completely (which you seem to have a hard time doing), he clearly stated that he could not use that method, because he didn't have the clearance necessary. I was offering an out of the box opinion, trying to help him. Nothing more.

Again: Either your memory must be short, or you didn't actually read my post when I was responding to yours, because I clearly said:

"Granted: 5w20 is not on there, but if you read my post correctly, I clearly stated that I CHOOSE to deviate from "the norm"."



"Basically, what you are suggested is similar to saying you can go 150,000 miles on a timing belt"

This is the worst comparison ever. I do a full oil change with Mobile 1 full synthetic, which clearly states on the bottle that it's guaranteed for 15k miles, but I'm not willing to risk believing that claim, which is why I go 5k miles, then change my humongous oil filter, which causes me to lose about half of the old oil, so I'm actually changing not only the filter, but also roughly half of the oil.

You don't change the oil in a timing belt. They have a predetermined quality (the brand you bought) and they are designed to last for a predetermined amount of time, which is dependent on how you drive and care for your car.

Why are you so hell bent on trying to vilify me when you have no reason to? If I'm wrong about something, I will be the first to admit it, yet you're going so far out of your way to make me look bad that it's backfiring on you. You're doing nothing more than helping me prove my points.

Here's an example of how you're so quick to jump to conclusions, that you make your own mistakes while trying to correct someone else's: Look at where you used your BIG black marker to put that disclaimer on my post and you will see that you stated that "This is the opinion of THE ORIGINAL POSTER."

I am not, nor was I ever the original poster (unless you're now going to tell me that you've changed the definition of OP).


Do this: Count how many threads in which I've helped someone.
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I hate to dig up an old thread - and I not trying to argue with anyone (again), but here is the Bentley service manual. It recommends that you change your oil and filter every ten thousand miles - and that's assuming you're using regular oil and not synthetic.

So, unless Bentley is wrong, my method is actually better than what they recommend.

Either way: Hopefully this document helps someone (even if it's not oil related).
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Just because the Bentley reiterates the manufacturer's original specification does not make it correct when the manufacturer admitted issues stemming from their recommendation

 

Fair enough, but you have to consider the huge difference between Dinosaur oil and full synthetic (especially high grade synthetics - like Mobile one's most expensive ****). I also have an AWM, so I'm guessing that was designed with the sludge issue in mind.

Would I love to use the best synthetic oil, the best filter and have them both changed every 3K miles? Of course I would. I'd do it every 1K miles if I could afford it, but that's not realistic in my world. I slowly came to the method I use now. Having my Audi tech check for cleanliness every time he did a job for me (valve cover gaskets, half-moon gaskets, ultimately every oil gasket my engine has, including the ECS "Ultimate timing kit).

I slowly started extending the length/mileage of my oil & filters in between each service and every time I took it in, I asked him about the cleanliness and he kept saying everything looked fine. The method I use now is about as far as I want to push it. I drive my car pretty hard most of the time and I haven't had any issues in over a year, so I guess it works for me.

One thing I did get from our discussion, is that I decided to change from 5w-20 to 10w-30, since I didn't see 5w20 anywhere in any of the documentation either of us provided. I don't remember where I got that number from, but I did decide to switch to 10w30, since it (as a weight only) is approved quite a bit in most of the documentation, whereas 5w-20 was nowhere to be found.

That's the beauty of discussions like these. As long as people can keep the sand out of their vaginas and argue their points with the understanding that "arguing" your point is not the same as "fighting". We're all here to help, so arguing things like this is healthy and informative, but fighting just ruins what could've been a great discussion, which is what this ended up being. Hell, it got me to change something about how I do things and that will most likely help me considerably (in the long run).