2.8l 12V is moddable!
#11
Some things are just not meant to be.
#12
Good point on the nitrous. There is nothing wrong with a little juice but I do laugh at the kids with the 'suicide' buttons mounted to their dash.
A 2.8L with its compression I think could handle a 75 wet shot safely. If you want to be daring maybe a nice 100 on the weekends with cold plugs, and 125 on 110 octane. A proper nitrous setup wielding a properly set window switch, safety arm switch, a WOT switch, a bottle heater and purge kit to maintain a steady, predictable spray, cold plugs, and last but not least an aftermarket wideband, should put your motor in no harm, and you looking at less than 1200$.
A 2.8L with its compression I think could handle a 75 wet shot safely. If you want to be daring maybe a nice 100 on the weekends with cold plugs, and 125 on 110 octane. A proper nitrous setup wielding a properly set window switch, safety arm switch, a WOT switch, a bottle heater and purge kit to maintain a steady, predictable spray, cold plugs, and last but not least an aftermarket wideband, should put your motor in no harm, and you looking at less than 1200$.
Last edited by A4.Q; 06-16-2009 at 07:37 AM.
#13
Well, I'm on the same boat, enough time and money you can turn any ride into a respectable street deamon.
Being an engineer, I know for my B5 12v this is not practical. I just got my
Z32, so I'm not really thinking of doing anything detrimental to the motor, I have a VG30DETT already lol.
So, we have to think about this from an economical standpoint. The cheapest way to increase the speed and nimbleness of the car is to increase the power to weight ratio. They say a good rule of thumb is 100lbs =
.1 sec in the 1/4 mi.
Also, if you reduce the unsprung weight i.e the wheels, you would be amazed at the difference in feel, and how long your bushing and bearings last in your suspensions lol. I currently have the S4 rims on my B5, but am searching for some real lightweights when I am ready. But like I said, my Z32 is my baby now, 90% of my mod money is going to her
Being an engineer, I know for my B5 12v this is not practical. I just got my
Z32, so I'm not really thinking of doing anything detrimental to the motor, I have a VG30DETT already lol.
So, we have to think about this from an economical standpoint. The cheapest way to increase the speed and nimbleness of the car is to increase the power to weight ratio. They say a good rule of thumb is 100lbs =
.1 sec in the 1/4 mi.
Also, if you reduce the unsprung weight i.e the wheels, you would be amazed at the difference in feel, and how long your bushing and bearings last in your suspensions lol. I currently have the S4 rims on my B5, but am searching for some real lightweights when I am ready. But like I said, my Z32 is my baby now, 90% of my mod money is going to her
#14
http://www.ajdesigner.com/phphorsepo...ight_ratio.php
Hp/Wieght calculator to accuratly figure what each pound is worth in "HP" or "force".
Hp/Wieght calculator to accuratly figure what each pound is worth in "HP" or "force".
#15
http://www.ajdesigner.com/phphorsepo...ight_ratio.php
Hp/Wieght calculator to accuratly figure what each pound is worth in "HP" or "force".
Hp/Wieght calculator to accuratly figure what each pound is worth in "HP" or "force".
According to this site, the equation for "Calculating engine horsepower after a 1/4 mile run using the ET method" is
Knowing that my stock 97 A4 Q 2.8 12v has 172CHP, and weighs 3015 lbs.
Since I know my HP, I can solve for my ET, and see the effect of losing 100lbs.
I'm not going to try and work it out on here, but the end result is X=15.13 or so.
If I lost 100lbs, my ET would be 14.96 or so.
Thats actually close to .17s in the 1/4 mi. Not to shabby. Do the math if you don't believe me.
If you shave 1000lbs off, thats right around 2 seconds, but good luck shaving off more than 200-300 lbs lol, if you go extreeme.
#16
Audi 4340 EN24 Billet Crankshafts & Forged H-Beam Connecting Rods
Website: www.furiousracingparts.com
Website: www.furiousracingparts.com