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  #91  
Old 09-15-2008, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by chaos92287
not really, but ok. and there's no reason to hate on any brand of cars. that just shows your immaturity
I'm not hating on any brand of car. I'm simply stating that your past shows clearly why you may think ill of an idea that isn't "bolt in".

Originally Posted by chaos92287
you can still intercool them and push more psi (it would have to be custom), but again the block isn't that strong anyways

never said it had anything to do with the compression, it has to do with the aluminum block and 2 bolt main. im sayin the supercharger kit will cost less (but also produce slightly less power)
The s/c kit costs 5 grand upfront. It's going to be 8-10 by the time you do the upgrades to get it up to ~10psi. It will produce significantly less power from the driveline losses incurred by the s/c. An MP62 will start drawing off a large amount of power, ~25-35hp, by the time you spin it up fast enough to make ~10psi. Also you will be way off the better efficiency islands on the compressor map and intercooled or not you will have a higher intake charge. This will require an even higher octane fuel to remain reliable.




Originally Posted by chaos92287
its not any more difficult than what your proposing. it bolts right up and fits perfectly in the engine bay. only a slight modification to the subframe is needed.
A motor swap and subframe modification are no more difficult that a small time turbo kit?

You lose.

I cannot even fathom anyone believing this gibberish.


Originally Posted by chaos92287
im too lazy right now to list the parts and prices right now, but why don't you try and tell me where your getting this 6k figure from
I believe I already did this but give me 5 minutes to do it again...
 
  #92  
Old 09-15-2008, 11:05 PM
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You know what? Yinz can have this thread. It's ok. Really. I'm sorry I know so little about Audis but I'm used to old school pushrod V8s. In fact I could always just **** everyone off, convert it to RWD, throw a small block V8 in it and say **** everyone. If a small block fits in a Focus and a Honda, it'll def. fit in an Audi.
 
  #93  
Old 09-15-2008, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by airguard350
You know what? Yinz can have this thread. It's ok. Really. I'm sorry I know so little about Audis but I'm used to old school pushrod V8s. In fact I could always just **** everyone off, convert it to RWD, throw a small block V8 in it and say **** everyone. If a small block fits in a Focus and a Honda, it'll def. fit in an Audi.

I don't really care what you do as long as you don't take my advice, manipulate it, take it out of context misinterpret it and blame me when you **** something up.

Hows that for a legal disclaimer?
 
  #94  
Old 09-15-2008, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperSquid
I don't really care what you do as long as you don't take my advice, manipulate it, take it out of context misinterpret it and blame me when you **** something up.

Hows that for a legal disclaimer?
Hey, I never manipulated your advice. I was talking about small block V8s. I actually liked your advice until it turned into an argument with some *** you've probably never even met. I also simply asked if 2.7 and 2.8 internals were interchangeable, it was a simple yes/no question. Like I said, I'm used to talking about Chevy small blocks, where most of the internals are interchangeable.
 
  #95  
Old 09-15-2008, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperSquid
I'm not hating on any brand of car. I'm simply stating that your past shows clearly why you may think ill of an idea that isn't "bolt in".
r u serious? i was suggesting a vr6 swap over your custom turbo. neither is "bolt in". one is just a much better choice

The s/c kit costs 5 grand upfront. It's going to be 8-10 by the time you do the upgrades to get it up to ~10psi. It will produce significantly less power from the driveline losses incurred by the s/c. An MP62 will start drawing off a large amount of power, ~25-35hp, by the time you spin it up fast enough to make ~10psi. Also you will be way off the better efficiency islands on the compressor map and intercooled or not you will have a higher intake charge. This will require an even higher octane fuel to remain reliable.
i suggested the s/c if you wanted to make so-so power since it will be cheaper than your custom turbo kit. thats it. i still think the vr6 is a way better option


A motor swap and subframe modification are no more difficult that a small time turbo kit?

You lose.

I cannot even fathom anyone believing this gibberish.
ur a fvckin retard. a motor swap isn't hard at all. you keep blabbing about your skills and yet you cant do a simple motor swap that has already been done and already has all the parts you need to get it done. yet you can custom make the piping needed for your turbo setup and tune the sem? even if it is slightly harder its a way smarter idea.

20 bucks says you never even do this, and another 100 says its gona cost you more than 6 grand. so if you do end up doing this im gona laugh when you could of gotten twice the power and infinite more potential for a little bit more money.
 
  #96  
Old 09-15-2008, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by chaos92287
20 bucks says you never even do this, and another 100 says its gona cost you more than 6 grand. so if you do end up doing this im gona laugh when you could of gotten twice the power and infinite more potential for a little bit more money.
are you that dense? I already said i am not doing it. 3 times, in this thread.


Originally Posted by chaos92287
r u serious? i was suggesting a vr6 swap over your custom turbo. neither is "bolt in". one is just a much better choice


Originally Posted by chaos92287
i suggested the s/c if you wanted to make so-so power since it will be cheaper than your custom turbo kit.
It won't be cheaper, but it may be easier.


Originally Posted by chaos92287
i still think the vr6 is a way better option
I agree.


If you want 500hp. That motor is a better option.

If you want less than that it is a dumb idea to waste all that time and money on a motor swap.



Originally Posted by chaos92287
ur a fvckin retard. a motor swap isn't hard at all. you keep blabbing about your skills and yet you cant do a simple motor swap that has already been done and already has all the parts you need to get it done. yet you can custom make the piping needed for your turbo setup and tune the sem? even if it is slightly harder its a way smarter idea.
lets see...10 grand for a motor swap. Or $3-400 to have an exhaust shop fab an up and down pipe for me? hmm......yes.....relatively the same.


If you have a welder already, which you would need for the subframe modification, then its going to cost $50 in materials for the up and down pipes.
 
  #97  
Old 09-15-2008, 11:37 PM
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~5-6psi

Garrett GT3071R 1200
Microtech LT12s 1495
hot side piping 400
cold side piping 50
silicone couplers 50
filter 50
clamps 25
oil/water feed/retrun lines 75
dyno day 600
various 50

total 3995



9-10psi additional

tial wastegate 230
w/g plumbing 75
intercooler 200
injectors 400
fuel pump 250
clutch 600
radiator 500
tuning 600






grand total 6800


And I estimated high on a lot of that stuff. Tuning is in there twice @ $600/day, etc. That should do as much as the block will hold.

cheaper than getting the same whp out of the PES s/c kit, cheaper than dropping in a new motor.

But if you want 500hp, then yes, go with a motor swap.

Or better yet go with a different car that you don't have to do a motor swap. Something with a pushrod v8 would be a really cheap place to go for 500hp on a nickel.
 
  #98  
Old 09-16-2008, 12:07 AM
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Unless its a Ford 302/5.0. The stock block is only good for 400 horse.
 
  #99  
Old 09-16-2008, 12:28 AM
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now theres some Audi rings.

 
  #100  
Old 09-16-2008, 02:54 AM
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Originally Posted by SuperSquid
are you that dense? I already said i am not doing it. 3 times, in this thread.
so sorry i dont read all your posts






It won't be cheaper, but it may be easier.
last time i checked 5g's is cheaper than 7

I agree.


If you want 500hp. That motor is a better option.

If you want less than that it is a dumb idea to waste all that time and money on a motor swap.
what's dumb is spending 7 grand into a motor with little potential

lets see...10 grand for a motor swap. Or $3-400 to have an exhaust shop fab an up and down pipe for me? hmm......yes.....relatively the same.
that made no sense. your comparing the entire cost of the vr6 swap to the cost of the downpipe for the turbo kit. and cost has nothing to do with skills needed to do each. Either way its a bit of metal work and some basic wrenching.

If you have a welder already, which you would need for the subframe modification, then its going to cost $50 in materials for the up and down pipes.
yeah cause everyone has a mandrel bender...

Originally Posted by SuperSquid
~5-6psi

Garrett GT3071R 1200
Microtech LT12s 1495
hot side piping 400
cold side piping 50
silicone couplers 50
filter 50
clamps 25
oil/water feed/retrun lines 75
dyno day 600
various 50

total 3995

9-10psi additional

tial wastegate 230
w/g plumbing 75
intercooler 200
injectors 400
fuel pump 250
clutch 600
radiator 500
tuning 600

grand total 6800
lines, clamps, and intercooler are gona cost you more than that. you forgot a bov and gauges. and im wondering how your gona run the turbo w/out a wastegate at first. not to mention i doubt the stock fueling system is gona run well even with only 5-6psi. so your actualy total is over 8 grand, which is the same price as the parts for the vr6 swap. so it only comes down to the install costs. and the differences between that aren't that much and the result is way better
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