Ok, sorry if I put this in the wrong forum, but I haven't been here in a long time. My 2.5TDI had to be left in Germany, it blew a head gasket and wouldn't pass emissions like that.

I once again own an audi 2.8QM!
I believe it's the 12V model though, but without the vin handy, I can't tell you if it's the early or late 1997 model, I've only owned the car for a few days, but I'm not sure if that will make a difference or not.

So I was driving after one day of owning the car, and I lost my clutch, it just stuck to the floor, no warning signs, and luckily I was able to push it off the road and walk to work. The same thing happened to my 94 F350, and knew that I had blown either my clutch master or clutch slave. I found oil(dot4) leaking from under the car, and frothy bubbles in the master cylinder reservoir. I plan on replacing both parts now, but I'm not entirely sure what the part numbers are correct for my car. If anyone has done this, and could point me in the right direction, I would really appreciate it!

Also, when doing this job, is their a hydraulic clutch line that is needed with the install, or does the clutch master and slave connect to each other, or in another way? I haven't found a hydraulic clutch line, just the slave and master cylinder, so I am a bit lost on that too. Also will pumping the clutch bleed the air out manually or do i need a special bleeder?

Thanks for the help!

 

The ONLY way to really tell is by the VIN. I have an 98 B5 2.8, and have run into issues going by the year alone, since it was manufactured in mid 97, so the parts are different and I can only tell by the vin. As an example, a 1998 oil pan will NOT fit my car, but it is a 30V.....

You can go to ecstuning, it will list the parts, it also generally lists a 'up to' vin if it is required. But your vin is the key.

If it's a 12V, the engine cover is also different than the 30Valve....

Also, there are a bunch of DIY write-ups on the clutch you can google, google is your friend.....