1996 A4 2.8 auto: transmission write up
#2
10-08-2010, 10:20 AM
Take exhaust off
Car is on the hoist to start the transmission removal process.
I started with trying to take the exhaust off; got the 2 (each side) lower of the 3 bolts off that connect the 'downpipe' to the header, but can't reach the upper one. Is easier from the top or from below? Any tips how to get them off?
Also, I noticed ugly welds on the exhaust. I don't know how it is supposed to look like, but it sure gives me the impression that the last guy was to lazy to get the exhaust disconnected from the headers (see above) and just cut the 2 downpipes and welded the new section on.
See below.
How is it supposed to look like? Is there supposed to be a coupling/flange or one piece each (from header to end of Y)?
I started with trying to take the exhaust off; got the 2 (each side) lower of the 3 bolts off that connect the 'downpipe' to the header, but can't reach the upper one. Is easier from the top or from below? Any tips how to get them off?
Also, I noticed ugly welds on the exhaust. I don't know how it is supposed to look like, but it sure gives me the impression that the last guy was to lazy to get the exhaust disconnected from the headers (see above) and just cut the 2 downpipes and welded the new section on.
See below.
How is it supposed to look like? Is there supposed to be a coupling/flange or one piece each (from header to end of Y)?
#3
10-11-2010, 11:36 AM
I got the exhaust off.
I have all but the 2 top bolts removed that connect the trans to the engine. I spent a good 2 hours trying to get the 2 top once loose. Easy to get there, but not enough strength to brake them loose; extensions don't allow enough movement to apply torque.
Any suggestions how to get those 2 off?
Also, the drive shafts are off (I had the triple square tool from still around from last job).
Should I drain the trans fluid (if it comes out when removing the trans), or is it a contained unit (and fluids can stay in)?
I need to disconnect the trans fluid lines (going from the driver side over the trans to the passenger side; there are fittings from where they go to the trans cooler); just disconnect, or remove the lines entirely (bracket on driver side and I think bracket on passenger side).
Shift linkage: what to remove/disconnect?
Other sensors, lines that need to come off?
Rear drive shaft: obviously, it needs to be disconnected from the trans. Is there enough room then to move the transmission back and out?
Tips, suggestions, instructions, PLEASE!
I have all but the 2 top bolts removed that connect the trans to the engine. I spent a good 2 hours trying to get the 2 top once loose. Easy to get there, but not enough strength to brake them loose; extensions don't allow enough movement to apply torque.
Any suggestions how to get those 2 off?
Also, the drive shafts are off (I had the triple square tool from still around from last job).
Should I drain the trans fluid (if it comes out when removing the trans), or is it a contained unit (and fluids can stay in)?
I need to disconnect the trans fluid lines (going from the driver side over the trans to the passenger side; there are fittings from where they go to the trans cooler); just disconnect, or remove the lines entirely (bracket on driver side and I think bracket on passenger side).
Shift linkage: what to remove/disconnect?
Other sensors, lines that need to come off?
Rear drive shaft: obviously, it needs to be disconnected from the trans. Is there enough room then to move the transmission back and out?
Tips, suggestions, instructions, PLEASE!
#4
10-11-2010, 02:37 PM
With a quick search I found this, should be pretty close to what you're needing
https://www.audiforums.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=140511 (go to link in 1st post)
https://www.audiforums.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=140511 (go to link in 1st post)
#5
10-11-2010, 07:44 PM
With a quick search I found this, should be pretty close to what you're needing
https://www.audiforums.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=140511 (go to link in 1st post)
https://www.audiforums.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=140511 (go to link in 1st post)
-----
You can try and use a wrench to remove the 16mm bolts from the transmission but I find that there is an easier way. Connect two 2' extensions, a swivel and reach from behind the transmission. Play around with the position because there is stuff that will get in the way. Maybe easier if you disconnected the shifter rods first. If you need more room, remove the transmission mounts and tilt the trans+engine down.
Finally reach in with your hand and put the socket on. This is a shot of the passenger side. FYI, these bolts were on tight. There is some kind of hose in the way so space is limited, but it is possible to remove the top bolts using this method.
#6
10-11-2010, 07:49 PM
Disconnect flywheel from torque converter
With the transmission loose, I tried to figure out how to get the 3 (?) bolts out that connect the flyplate to the torque converter (but could figure it out after 2 hours of looking/trying/thinking).
On other auto trans cars, I typically find a opening (often in the bottom of the bell housing) covered by a plate or rubber plug that allows getting a wrench in and reach the bolts.
The heads of the bolts are kind of recessed behind the curve of flexplate.
How can I get to the bolt (hex) heads (behind the flexplate, toward the front of the car)?
On other auto trans cars, I typically find a opening (often in the bottom of the bell housing) covered by a plate or rubber plug that allows getting a wrench in and reach the bolts.
The heads of the bolts are kind of recessed behind the curve of flexplate.
How can I get to the bolt (hex) heads (behind the flexplate, toward the front of the car)?
#7
10-12-2010, 07:59 AM
Shift linkage
====> answering some of the questions myself
I got the exhaust off.
I have all but the 2 top bolts removed that connect the trans to the engine. I spent a good 2 hours trying to get the 2 top once loose. Easy to get there, but not enough strength to brake them loose; extensions don't allow enough movement to apply torque.
Any suggestions how to get those 2 off?
===> 4ft extensions plus swivel socket 16 plus long lever from back and above transition
Also, the drive shafts are off (I had the triple square tool from still around from last job).
Should I drain the trans fluid (if it comes out when removing the trans), or is it a contained unit (and fluids can stay in)?
===> It drips if the torque converter is pulled out. My fluid is shot (and likely others' as well since the reason for taking the transmission down is often a bad transmission. ==> Next time I drain right away.
I need to disconnect the trans fluid lines (going from the driver side over the trans to the passenger side; there are fittings from where they go to the trans cooler); just disconnect, or remove the lines entirely (bracket on driver side and I think bracket on passenger side).
====> I will leave them on the trans, disconnect.
Shift linkage: what to remove/disconnect?
====> I have marked and removed the cable bracket. I don't know how to disconnect the cable at the transmission. I hope after lowering the trans, that I can see how to disconnect.
Rear drive shaft: obviously, it needs to be disconnected from the trans. Is there enough room then to move the transmission back and out?
=====> After removing the bolts, the shaft easily drops down without needing much room.
Tips, suggestions, instructions, PLEASE!
I have all but the 2 top bolts removed that connect the trans to the engine. I spent a good 2 hours trying to get the 2 top once loose. Easy to get there, but not enough strength to brake them loose; extensions don't allow enough movement to apply torque.
Any suggestions how to get those 2 off?
===> 4ft extensions plus swivel socket 16 plus long lever from back and above transition
Also, the drive shafts are off (I had the triple square tool from still around from last job).
Should I drain the trans fluid (if it comes out when removing the trans), or is it a contained unit (and fluids can stay in)?
===> It drips if the torque converter is pulled out. My fluid is shot (and likely others' as well since the reason for taking the transmission down is often a bad transmission. ==> Next time I drain right away.
I need to disconnect the trans fluid lines (going from the driver side over the trans to the passenger side; there are fittings from where they go to the trans cooler); just disconnect, or remove the lines entirely (bracket on driver side and I think bracket on passenger side).
====> I will leave them on the trans, disconnect.
Shift linkage: what to remove/disconnect?
====> I have marked and removed the cable bracket. I don't know how to disconnect the cable at the transmission. I hope after lowering the trans, that I can see how to disconnect.
Rear drive shaft: obviously, it needs to be disconnected from the trans. Is there enough room then to move the transmission back and out?
=====> After removing the bolts, the shaft easily drops down without needing much room.
Tips, suggestions, instructions, PLEASE!
#8
10-12-2010, 09:56 AM
Transmission - flex plate - starter removal
I helpful angel told me that the only access to the bolts flex plate to torque converter is through the starter hole.
I have the starter loose and already tried for 1/2 hour to get it out, but the long nose/cone won't clear the motor housing/ring.
Is there a trick to get it out? Or do I have to remove the alternator (that seem to limit the space the starter must move to get the cone clear the housing)? If so, any special suggestions to remove the alternator?
Car is on hoist right now, and time is of the essence.
Can someone quickly chime in?
I have the starter loose and already tried for 1/2 hour to get it out, but the long nose/cone won't clear the motor housing/ring.
Is there a trick to get it out? Or do I have to remove the alternator (that seem to limit the space the starter must move to get the cone clear the housing)? If so, any special suggestions to remove the alternator?
Car is on hoist right now, and time is of the essence.
Can someone quickly chime in?
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