vent boost gauge install
#3
08-28-2008 | 04:03 PM
1st Gear
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 333
From: Detroit, Michigan
Here is my custom install.
This autometer gauge with the red bulb cover is great match for the stock lighting and gauges. As all of the parts exposed parts are round without flat edges, my airflow is still good. I lose directional control, but that is acceptable.
Materials:
Autometer gaugekit from my local speed shop - 35 bucks. Has vaccum and boost.
Electrical Tape
10-32 machine screws (3) (or whatever size you want that has a high threadcount so you can make minor adjustments)
10-32 tap (see above - if you want to go WAY cheap, you can simply force the screws into the holes and they will eventually self tap as plastic < metal.)
Drill
Dremel tool
Small bit for pilot hole
bit for main hole(i think it was 3/16"?)
Glue (super or something like it)
1. I measured out 3 points equally spaced apart from eachother and marked the spots with a sharpie. 1 hole on top, and two on the bottom. Reason being - since the bulk of the weight is towards the front of the vent, I wanted a setscrew at the top aligned perfectly to brace the weight. The bottom two merely hold the gauge steady and centered.
2. I drilled a pilot hole at each of the marks and then followed up with the bit that closely matched the size of the screws, but made sure it was not oversized, so I could run the tap through it.
* You are screwing into plastic, so you do not*have* to use a tap, but I suggest it.
The screws I selected were standard 10-32 1/2" paintball machine screws. As you cannot fit the pod back into the hole with the heads of the screws sticking out (well, you can with force, but you may NEVER get it back out), I used a dremel tool to cut the head of the screw off, and then turned the dremel so it was perpendicular to the newly cut edge and made a cut so I could now fit a slotted screwdriver into the head of the screw.
When you trim off the head, you actually have to measure how much you need to cut, because the distance needed for each gauge is different. You need the head of the screw flush with the outside surface of the vent pod, but also have to account for the extra length needed to fit the plastic housing that came with the gauge(if you use it). Also, if you want max airflow from the vent still, and pick a tiny gauge, you may need to start with 1" screws.
You can also buy premade hex machine screws but I was cheap and lazy so I just made DIY slotted scews. You need High threadcount machine screws, because we dont really have many rows of threads biting into the screw. The plastic is fairly thin. You could use a nut on the inside to help brace the force, but it really isnt needed.
3. Now we have to match up the holes we just made with the plastic housing that comes with the autometer gauge. I eyeballed this laying it flat on a table, running my hexscrews through the holes and marking the plastic housing witha sharpie where the holes would need to go. (I am sure you can entirely skip) and just tighten against the gauge itself or the plastic housing. I just thought it would hold better using an actual hole / notch for the set screws to set in.
4. Screw it all together and eyeball your gauge to make sure you have it centered. If you want it offset, you can also do that. It takes a bit of work to get everything centered unless you count your turns / threads. If your set screws are too long, trim then a tad. If they are too short, congrats - you get to buy more and cut them all over again.
This autometer gauge with the red bulb cover is great match for the stock lighting and gauges. As all of the parts exposed parts are round without flat edges, my airflow is still good. I lose directional control, but that is acceptable.
Materials:
Autometer gaugekit from my local speed shop - 35 bucks. Has vaccum and boost.
Electrical Tape
10-32 machine screws (3) (or whatever size you want that has a high threadcount so you can make minor adjustments)
10-32 tap (see above - if you want to go WAY cheap, you can simply force the screws into the holes and they will eventually self tap as plastic < metal.)
Drill
Dremel tool
Small bit for pilot hole
bit for main hole(i think it was 3/16"?)
Glue (super or something like it)
1. I measured out 3 points equally spaced apart from eachother and marked the spots with a sharpie. 1 hole on top, and two on the bottom. Reason being - since the bulk of the weight is towards the front of the vent, I wanted a setscrew at the top aligned perfectly to brace the weight. The bottom two merely hold the gauge steady and centered.
2. I drilled a pilot hole at each of the marks and then followed up with the bit that closely matched the size of the screws, but made sure it was not oversized, so I could run the tap through it.
* You are screwing into plastic, so you do not*have* to use a tap, but I suggest it.
The screws I selected were standard 10-32 1/2" paintball machine screws. As you cannot fit the pod back into the hole with the heads of the screws sticking out (well, you can with force, but you may NEVER get it back out), I used a dremel tool to cut the head of the screw off, and then turned the dremel so it was perpendicular to the newly cut edge and made a cut so I could now fit a slotted screwdriver into the head of the screw.
When you trim off the head, you actually have to measure how much you need to cut, because the distance needed for each gauge is different. You need the head of the screw flush with the outside surface of the vent pod, but also have to account for the extra length needed to fit the plastic housing that came with the gauge(if you use it). Also, if you want max airflow from the vent still, and pick a tiny gauge, you may need to start with 1" screws.
You can also buy premade hex machine screws but I was cheap and lazy so I just made DIY slotted scews. You need High threadcount machine screws, because we dont really have many rows of threads biting into the screw. The plastic is fairly thin. You could use a nut on the inside to help brace the force, but it really isnt needed.
3. Now we have to match up the holes we just made with the plastic housing that comes with the autometer gauge. I eyeballed this laying it flat on a table, running my hexscrews through the holes and marking the plastic housing witha sharpie where the holes would need to go. (I am sure you can entirely skip) and just tighten against the gauge itself or the plastic housing. I just thought it would hold better using an actual hole / notch for the set screws to set in.
4. Screw it all together and eyeball your gauge to make sure you have it centered. If you want it offset, you can also do that. It takes a bit of work to get everything centered unless you count your turns / threads. If your set screws are too long, trim then a tad. If they are too short, congrats - you get to buy more and cut them all over again.
#5
08-28-2008 | 04:33 PM
1st Gear
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 333
From: Detroit, Michigan
i used someone's FOTKI walkthrough as my guide to do it. Its a pretty easy install, but tears the dash apart, so it looks harder than it really is. There is a rubber plug I ran my tubing through. I pulled it out, cut holes in that first, and then put it back in.
just run a search here or at Audiworld. I hate the AW forum setup, but the search feature is faster and turns up more fitting results than when i search these forums.
just run a search here or at Audiworld. I hate the AW forum setup, but the search feature is faster and turns up more fitting results than when i search these forums.
#8
08-28-2008 | 06:55 PM
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 189
From: NC
alright you guys talked me into it lol ive spent enough already, might as well not cheap out now....i was thinking a stewrt warner gauge...i dont like the guages with vacuum on them....any other recommendations that will match with backlit lighting?
#9
08-28-2008 | 07:17 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 327
From: Middletown NY
from what a couple people told me VDO with a with white LED bulb looks good. i actually got an autometer with a led buld and looks just as good the only thin is that i guess from what i've been told VDO makes our stock gauges. not sure if that is true tho. also i want with autometer cus i was at the store in stock and i couldn't wait anymore. lol. look at it this way. it's wat cheaper then the awe one.
#10
08-29-2008 | 12:18 AM
2nd Gear
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 600
You can use a 2 5/8 gauge and it will fit perfectly. You will also lose all airflow out the vent but the air is sent out the other vents with more force. I prefer the look over the vent rings and have had several people think it came that way stock. I used the AA pro comp series that matches the stock gauges pretty well.