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Started building sub enclosure

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  #21  
Old 09-16-2008, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Indiepunk
Here comes the dumb questions.... You are going to build a back for the box right? Are you going to wet wood and bend it to the curve? I can't logically visualize how the back end will be built.

I believe my harness was made by Metra. I needed a ground loop isolator. Did anyone mention that yet?
Yah, I think it's metra that makes those harness. I just ran my aftermarket headunit without the use of ground loop isolator. B4 I did my install I too heard you needed the isolator (read it somewhere in these forums).
 
  #22  
Old 09-16-2008, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 2Screwed
Grew up in Spring, TX (north of Houston), but live in Cali now.
May we inquire as to where abouts in Cali?
 
  #23  
Old 09-16-2008, 12:49 PM
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2screwed.. when i take off the rear panel i need to tap into the wires.. which color wires were they? And my line out converter has a left and right.. so do i need to tap into both rear speakers ?
 
  #24  
Old 09-16-2008, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ooTToo
2screwed.. when i take off the rear panel i need to tap into the wires.. which color wires were they? And my line out converter has a left and right.. so do i need to tap into both rear speakers ?
yes you will need to tap both sides. Just reach under the rear speakers and follow the wires down. I believe one is black and the other was black with white stripe. I think I tapped both wires from the speakers, left and right rear (4 total). That was it.\

I'm in the San Diego area.
 
  #25  
Old 09-16-2008, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 2Screwed
The back will be custom fiberglass mold. I hope to start the molding process this weekend. There are several ways to do it but I plan on taping the whole trunk up, putting down some protective plastic, then lining the rear with aluminum foil (the foil helps with releasing the fiberglass from the trunk area). Put the fiber cloth down, put the glass on top of that and layer until I get the thickness I am looking for. The fiberglass bonds really nicely to the mdf enclosure. Once I get the rear done, I'll pull the box from the car, put the top on and bond that to the fiberglass, then trim and sand the edges. Bondo all the visible surfaces, block sand, paint, sand, clear and it will be done.

This sounds like it will be nice but why not just make the back with square corners out of MDF? The top of the enclosure will still give it the appearance of a molded back w/o all the labor extensive costly work. I could understand going your route if there was no other way or if the fiberglass was a show piece but it will just be the back and no one will ever see it.
 
  #26  
Old 09-18-2008, 02:25 PM
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2Screwed if it's not too much to ask.. Would it be possible for you to give us the outter measurements of your enclosure? So that those of us who would like to try and build one have an easier time.
 
  #27  
Old 09-18-2008, 02:46 PM
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Let me know what dimensions you are looking for and I will try to get them for you. The only problem is that there are so many radius and angles it is hard to get actual dimensions.

I used cardboard and cut it up until I got it to match the radius and size of the box I wanted, then traced onto the mdf.
 
  #28  
Old 09-18-2008, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboTT920
This sounds like it will be nice but why not just make the back with square corners out of MDF? The top of the enclosure will still give it the appearance of a molded back w/o all the labor extensive costly work. I could understand going your route if there was no other way or if the fiberglass was a show piece but it will just be the back and no one will ever see it.
Agreed. It also makes the calculation of airspace a little more easier. Simply make your box and keep the visible parts conforming to the curves.

I have not seen a JL speaker in 4 or 5 years, but I am sad to see they are using those fat style surrounds ... cheese.

Nice subs though...
 
  #29  
Old 09-18-2008, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 2Screwed
Let me know what dimensions you are looking for and I will try to get them for you. The only problem is that there are so many radius and angles it is hard to get actual dimensions.

I used cardboard and cut it up until I got it to match the radius and size of the box I wanted, then traced onto the mdf.
Basically if you can I just need to know the top or bottom piece size. I know there are round corners you have to work with but knowing the length/width saves some time. Tyvm.
 
  #30  
Old 09-18-2008, 03:35 PM
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I'm sure most of you have seen this before, but I am doing what others have done in the past. To try and cut all the angles I would need to get the rear of the box out of MDF would not be fun. The box would need to be even bigger to get the proper air space. I am making use of all the possible space I can by using the fiberglass and cutting down on weight by doing it also.

Here is a link to the box I am modeling mine off of. It is not completely the same but very close. I decided to do a mdf bottom for support and only glass the rear section. I don't think I am going to build the amp cover like he did either but I will finish my box off with a shinny coat of black paint to make it look like a body panel.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/493978/5
 


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