Nice choice of sub. I was thinking of trying to fit one (obviously with a bit of custom fab work) where the stock sub is in my roadster...Then mount the amp in the trunk underneath the small cutout area where the top stores into.

Here's a little info some may wanna check out- http://mk1tt.montebellopark.com/
http://www.wak-tt.com/links/links.htm





http://enfigcarstereo.com/shopsite_s...UX_DMX_V1.html

And prolly the most detailed here>>>>> http://www.wak-tt.com/mods/subwoofer/subwoofer.htm

 

2screwed - are you from TX?

I am going through a car audio/visual school right now (www.acousticedge.com) and am learning lots of things about all this crap. Did you get the specs for your box before you built it? Every sub has specs that the box should be built to get the best sound possible.

 

Much like what turboTT920 posted. here is the link of several harness http://www.bluespot.co.uk/install/show_model.asp?id=22.. As for what jeff bipes did. I will tell you this. If you have a concert radio with a cd change.. don't go by his diagram. Out of that whole diagram, the only thing correct is the +12 and ground wire (for that part of the harness)..

The harness for the amp and subs is a different one. It's a red hardness (like in the link mentioned above). Where there is 1 +12v line coming out of the harness with 2 sets of audio rca's. I you use that harness then you will have no problems installing an amp etc.

The use of a hi to low converter is ok. But you won't get the best sound quality. Just get the wiring harness, it's available at your local best buy, fry's electronics ets. Your car stereo shop will also have them.

Edited: At no time will you ever need to cut into the OEM harness.. Just get the aftermarket harness and make a post here.. I will walk you through it.

 

Bass tube are compact. But the sound is not so great.. Pls don't tell me you want a bass tube.

 

Here is the actual harness that I got from crutchfield (it works). http://www.crutchfield.com/S-0CMmzUy...px?i=120701787. On the black harness only +12 and ground are correct, Dis-regard everything else on that harness. As for the red harness, that one is correct. That is the one that will work, to power the oem amp along with an aftermarket amp.

 

Grew up in Spring, TX (north of Houston), but live in Cali now.

I have the specs from JL and I made it so that I can move the supports left or right to increase or decrease the size of the box. I am going to get some packing peanuts, measure out the correct size I need then pour them in and move the supports to get the right dimensions. It is going to be a sealed box. I am also putting sound absorbing foam (egg crate) on the inside walls. Should make it hit a little crisper.

On upgrading mids and highs- A little at a time. I don't have a big bank roll right now so I am doing what I can, when I can and saving as much as I can by doing it myself. My next project, however is fitting an RNS-E in place of the stock radio. I am going to mold a new center section to house it and relocate the a/c controls. That should be fun!

 

im still lost.. where do you tap into the rear speakers for the line out converter ? I see the picture above but which ones do you tap into.. and where is this panel located ?
sorry i dont know much about this stuff at all

 

ooTToo-

I just tapped from the rear speaker wires, ran them through a high/low converter. That will convert the wires to RCA and then you can plug into your amp. It is easier than pulling the radio (for me anyways, cause I don't have my code) and you have to take off the rear panels any ways, depending on how you are running your amp wires. You don't have to cut the wires, just use a wire tap. Real easy.

 

Here comes the dumb questions.... You are going to build a back for the box right? Are you going to wet wood and bend it to the curve? I can't logically visualize how the back end will be built.

I believe my harness was made by Metra. I needed a ground loop isolator. Did anyone mention that yet?

 

The back will be custom fiberglass mold. I hope to start the molding process this weekend. There are several ways to do it but I plan on taping the whole trunk up, putting down some protective plastic, then lining the rear with aluminum foil (the foil helps with releasing the fiberglass from the trunk area). Put the fiber cloth down, put the glass on top of that and layer until I get the thickness I am looking for. The fiberglass bonds really nicely to the mdf enclosure. Once I get the rear done, I'll pull the box from the car, put the top on and bond that to the fiberglass, then trim and sand the edges. Bondo all the visible surfaces, block sand, paint, sand, clear and it will be done.