Performance Question
#1
05-14-2008 | 12:43 PM
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 159
From: Vista, Ca
Performance Question
I recently purchased a 2000 Audi TT that had a new K04 turbo put on and an APR tune. I am told by the dealer (small time dealer) that that this was done by a shop in Los Angeles.
I have a boost gauge and when I am giving it throttle and accelerating hard, at 1 bar the engine seemsto shut down until the boost drops below 1 bar, then it will pick back up again. In the mornings (when cold) the boost seems to pick up gradually until it gets to 1 bar, but doesn't go over. Once the car is warm the boost shoots up past 1 bar when I give it gas.
I did a search on here and found the TTweaker's Guide that referenced a couple different issues that it might be.
There is a program in the computer that limits the boost. Basically says if you add a large turbo the curves won't match and you won't get the expected results.
Could be a leak? or bad waste gate?
Any other ideas?
And yes, I have tried contacting the shop the dealer took it to but I live over 2 hours away and making it up there is not an easy thing to do.
I have a boost gauge and when I am giving it throttle and accelerating hard, at 1 bar the engine seemsto shut down until the boost drops below 1 bar, then it will pick back up again. In the mornings (when cold) the boost seems to pick up gradually until it gets to 1 bar, but doesn't go over. Once the car is warm the boost shoots up past 1 bar when I give it gas.
I did a search on here and found the TTweaker's Guide that referenced a couple different issues that it might be.
There is a program in the computer that limits the boost. Basically says if you add a large turbo the curves won't match and you won't get the expected results.
Could be a leak? or bad waste gate?
Any other ideas?
And yes, I have tried contacting the shop the dealer took it to but I live over 2 hours away and making it up there is not an easy thing to do.
#3
05-14-2008 | 02:11 PM
4th Gear
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,716
From: New York
RE: Performance Question
He has a 180 since it's a 2000. The K04 was an upgrade done by the previous owner (if I understand correctly).
Do you have a check engine light?
I'm pretty sure you could take it to any APR shop to have them check it out.
Where are you located?
Maybe one of the Cali TT owners could point you in the right direction to the nearest shop.
Do you have a check engine light?
I'm pretty sure you could take it to any APR shop to have them check it out.
Where are you located?
Maybe one of the Cali TT owners could point you in the right direction to the nearest shop.
#4
05-14-2008 | 03:14 PM
I'm make believe
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 17,587
From: In my head
RE: Performance Question
The Ko4 is the ko4-001 "upgrade" from APR. So it is still considerably smaller than a ko4-20 on a 225
When the car is cold, it will not boost like normal. PLEASE LET THE CAR WARM UP SOME BEFORE DRIVING. This will protect the engine and turbo better if you do. Shouldnt get on the car until the oil is at operating temps. So that is normal.
As for the power over 1bar, its only over 1bar for a short period of time. But it sounds like the DV could be worn. Find out what you have (if stock, please tell us the letter followingthe 710).
When the car is cold, it will not boost like normal. PLEASE LET THE CAR WARM UP SOME BEFORE DRIVING. This will protect the engine and turbo better if you do. Shouldnt get on the car until the oil is at operating temps. So that is normal.
As for the power over 1bar, its only over 1bar for a short period of time. But it sounds like the DV could be worn. Find out what you have (if stock, please tell us the letter followingthe 710).
#5
05-14-2008 | 03:42 PM
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 159
From: Vista, Ca
RE: Performance Question
Thank you for the replies!
I live in Southern California, so when I say cold I just mean not completely up to operating temperature but the temp needle is close to the normal position and the car has been running for a little while. It just acts differently then if I have been driving it for over 30 minutes.
Yes the previous owner did the upgrade.
I had a check engine light come on the other day P304 (i think) missfire cylinder #4, but hasn't come on since. It really feels like the car is limiting the boost. If it makes it over 1bar, just shutters and kind of shuts down. It happens only at 1bar, and up to that point pulls very hard.
I will check the DV for a number and get back to you. I was told it has an APR valve (don't remeber which now).
If someone knows a good shop in San Diego area, let me know.
Kristian
I live in Southern California, so when I say cold I just mean not completely up to operating temperature but the temp needle is close to the normal position and the car has been running for a little while. It just acts differently then if I have been driving it for over 30 minutes.
Yes the previous owner did the upgrade.
I had a check engine light come on the other day P304 (i think) missfire cylinder #4, but hasn't come on since. It really feels like the car is limiting the boost. If it makes it over 1bar, just shutters and kind of shuts down. It happens only at 1bar, and up to that point pulls very hard.
I will check the DV for a number and get back to you. I was told it has an APR valve (don't remeber which now).
If someone knows a good shop in San Diego area, let me know.
Kristian
#7
05-15-2008 | 07:57 PM
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 159
From: Vista, Ca
RE: Performance Question
I have not had a chance to make it under the hood yet, plan on doing it this weekend but I was searching on here and found some stuff about a N75 and overboost condition. This sounds like what my car is doing. Almost like the computer is set to only handle 1bar of boost then it shuts down to prevent damage.
Does this sound like it might be the problem? How do I know what the computer is set to consider "overboost"? Would a Vagcom tell me?
This is the post that I am referencing;
Does this sound like it might be the problem? How do I know what the computer is set to consider "overboost"? Would a Vagcom tell me?
This is the post that I am referencing;
Hi!
New guy here
I've got a VERY annoying problem.
My story starts with my car, chiptuned in Sweden (i'm Swedish so that makes kinda sense :P) boost pressure @ 1.35 bar (approx 19.5 psi)
One day my boost pressure started to pulse up and down (+/-0.1 bar) and then stabilize itself. On another occasion, the boost just went up top 1.25 bar but no pulses.
I solved this problem by replacing the n75 with a new one.
The car was chiptuned approx 5-6 months before the problem showed.
So, recently, the car was acting the exact same way again, this is 2 weeks after Ireplaced the n75.
A day after that, the boost started toskyrocket and the fuel-cut gets in.
I thought it was the n75 was the culprit even this time, I tested the wastegate, the hoses are good and limp-mode (or what to call it :P) works fine, i pulled the wire to the n75 and it works, but boost is @ 0.35 bar:P
I changed back to my old n75 to test some more, and it worked, but only for a minute or 2 and then the boost skyrockets again.
So I'm wondering, what causes the n75's to break?
The car is a A4 1.8t.
Please help!
New guy here
I've got a VERY annoying problem.
My story starts with my car, chiptuned in Sweden (i'm Swedish so that makes kinda sense :P) boost pressure @ 1.35 bar (approx 19.5 psi)
One day my boost pressure started to pulse up and down (+/-0.1 bar) and then stabilize itself. On another occasion, the boost just went up top 1.25 bar but no pulses.
I solved this problem by replacing the n75 with a new one.
The car was chiptuned approx 5-6 months before the problem showed.
So, recently, the car was acting the exact same way again, this is 2 weeks after Ireplaced the n75.
A day after that, the boost started toskyrocket and the fuel-cut gets in.
I thought it was the n75 was the culprit even this time, I tested the wastegate, the hoses are good and limp-mode (or what to call it :P) works fine, i pulled the wire to the n75 and it works, but boost is @ 0.35 bar:P
I changed back to my old n75 to test some more, and it worked, but only for a minute or 2 and then the boost skyrockets again.
So I'm wondering, what causes the n75's to break?
The car is a A4 1.8t.
Please help!
#8
05-16-2008 | 04:11 AM
1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 18
RE: Performance Question
I own a 2001 Audi TT. Do not even think about buying an AUDI that's not on maintenance plan. The reliability and cost issues are shocking. Tensioner upon Tensioner upon turbo replacement and cracked gasket covers...
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Car Crazed And Car Infos
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Car Crazed And Car Infos
#10
05-16-2008 | 04:51 PM
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 159
From: Vista, Ca
RE: Performance Question
The more I look into this, the more I think it has to do with the N75 valve.
Does it sound like a good idea to buy a N75J valve or to buy a boost machine? Are boost machine kits still sold? A lot of the links on the pages I found are broken.
Does it sound like a good idea to buy a N75J valve or to buy a boost machine? Are boost machine kits still sold? A lot of the links on the pages I found are broken.