Overheating in extreme cold
#1
Overheating in extreme cold
Dear TT experts,
I have a small problem which I am sure one of you will be able to resolve. I am a proud owner of a 2002 225hp Moro Blue Audi TT. A strange thing happened last night which I had never observed before. While I was driving on the freeway in Atlanta, GA, all of a sudden the temprature warning came on despite the fact it was 22 degrees outside (extremely cold for Atlanta weather). I glanced at the temp gauge and the needle was at the highest point. When I slowed down to stop the needle went back to the center of the temp gauge.
This kept on happening last night. The needle will go all the way up in about 10 secs and come back to normal slowly as soon as I let go of gas like at a traffic light. I checked the cooolant level and it was ok. Owners manual tells us not to add coolant. I got back home safely, despite the fact that the temp warning did come back again about 3 times during the 15 mins journey.
Please advise as I dont have the money to go to the stealerhsip.
Your inout will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Jazbati
I have a small problem which I am sure one of you will be able to resolve. I am a proud owner of a 2002 225hp Moro Blue Audi TT. A strange thing happened last night which I had never observed before. While I was driving on the freeway in Atlanta, GA, all of a sudden the temprature warning came on despite the fact it was 22 degrees outside (extremely cold for Atlanta weather). I glanced at the temp gauge and the needle was at the highest point. When I slowed down to stop the needle went back to the center of the temp gauge.
This kept on happening last night. The needle will go all the way up in about 10 secs and come back to normal slowly as soon as I let go of gas like at a traffic light. I checked the cooolant level and it was ok. Owners manual tells us not to add coolant. I got back home safely, despite the fact that the temp warning did come back again about 3 times during the 15 mins journey.
Please advise as I dont have the money to go to the stealerhsip.
Your inout will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Jazbati
#2
RE: Overheating in extreme cold
Unfortunately, its probably not good news. Sounds like your water pump went. You could try changing your Thermostat, Coolant temperature sensor, and bleeding the system of rogue air bubbles but 9 times out of 10 its going to be the pump.
Either the impeller separated from the shaft and is not spinning at the right speed anymore (why it will cool back down at idle) or too many impeller blades have broken off and it doesnt have the capability to move coolant at speed under a load.
If its the pump and you dont fix it yourself, your pretty much looking at $700-800 minimum unless you know someone.
Either the impeller separated from the shaft and is not spinning at the right speed anymore (why it will cool back down at idle) or too many impeller blades have broken off and it doesnt have the capability to move coolant at speed under a load.
If its the pump and you dont fix it yourself, your pretty much looking at $700-800 minimum unless you know someone.
#3
RE: Overheating in extreme cold
Denim TT,
Can you please recommend. Shall I get this done at the dealership or a local mechanic will be good enough to do this job. Please lemme know the seprate cost for thermostat, coolant temp sensor etc.
Thanks
Can you please recommend. Shall I get this done at the dealership or a local mechanic will be good enough to do this job. Please lemme know the seprate cost for thermostat, coolant temp sensor etc.
Thanks
#4
RE: Overheating in extreme cold
start the engine and get it up to temp then look in the expansion tank for coolant circulating water ( if nothing then its the pump ) if its circulating and engine runs ok without boiling over ( you will hear that from the expansion tank/ coolant filler point ) you might need new coolant and antifreeze
local mechanic is just as good at a tenth the cost
local mechanic is just as good at a tenth the cost
#5
RE: Overheating in extreme cold
I would use the dealer as a last resort. Call around and tell some local shops that you want a Timing Belt/Waterpump service on your TT and get some estimates. Labor rates can vary pretty wildly. Also your best bet is ordering your own parts from ECS, PureMS, Dieselgeek or somewhere like that. Youre not likely to get a better deal on parts if you let the shop order them for you.
I know at my dealership even with my employee discount (cost + 10%) its still cheaper to get the parts from ECS. Then you get a metal waterpump instead of Audi's plastic P.O.S. If you know any VW/Audi techs you might be able to set up a side deal for cash with them. I'm paying $300 cash for labor and ordering my own parts for my pump/T-belt.
Look around and maybe you will get lucky. I know the dealerships tend to be in the $1000-1500 range for the complete job out the door and theres no need to pay that much.
:edit: forgot to add the 4-pin green tip sensor upgrade is only around $20 and the thermostat comes with the timing belt kit from ECS which breaks down as follows:
"This kit put together by ECS Tuning was assembled to include everything required to perform a proper timing belt job on your 1.8T. This complete kit includes all the parts which have been known to frequently fail. Failure of any ONE of these parts will most likely damage the timing belt and result in catastrophic engine damage. Kit includes the following parts:
OEM timing belt made by Continental
OE tensioner Roller made by Ruville in Germany
OEM tensioner assembly made by Ruville in Germany
OE Idler roller (comes on the tensioner assembly)
Hepu water pump with metal impeller
Conti-Tech accessory drive belt
Behr thermostat
2) 1.5 liter bottles of G12 Coolant
Kit does NOT contain ECS motor mount bolt kit. Please order separately
Ruville is the OEM manufacturer for V/W & Audi for many of these items in fact the tensioner assembly that comes in the Ruville box is a OEM part with OEM insignia's & part #'s"
Like it says you will need to order the stretch bolts for the engine mount with the kit. You still end up way better off then paying retail for everything.
I know at my dealership even with my employee discount (cost + 10%) its still cheaper to get the parts from ECS. Then you get a metal waterpump instead of Audi's plastic P.O.S. If you know any VW/Audi techs you might be able to set up a side deal for cash with them. I'm paying $300 cash for labor and ordering my own parts for my pump/T-belt.
Look around and maybe you will get lucky. I know the dealerships tend to be in the $1000-1500 range for the complete job out the door and theres no need to pay that much.
:edit: forgot to add the 4-pin green tip sensor upgrade is only around $20 and the thermostat comes with the timing belt kit from ECS which breaks down as follows:
"This kit put together by ECS Tuning was assembled to include everything required to perform a proper timing belt job on your 1.8T. This complete kit includes all the parts which have been known to frequently fail. Failure of any ONE of these parts will most likely damage the timing belt and result in catastrophic engine damage. Kit includes the following parts:
OEM timing belt made by Continental
OE tensioner Roller made by Ruville in Germany
OEM tensioner assembly made by Ruville in Germany
OE Idler roller (comes on the tensioner assembly)
Hepu water pump with metal impeller
Conti-Tech accessory drive belt
Behr thermostat
2) 1.5 liter bottles of G12 Coolant
Kit does NOT contain ECS motor mount bolt kit. Please order separately
Ruville is the OEM manufacturer for V/W & Audi for many of these items in fact the tensioner assembly that comes in the Ruville box is a OEM part with OEM insignia's & part #'s"
Like it says you will need to order the stretch bolts for the engine mount with the kit. You still end up way better off then paying retail for everything.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post