Well it looks like the infamous cooling sytem bug has come to bite me in the ***.

Now I've already done some research and I am well aware that the most likely cause is the stock plastic pump impeller has been destroyed either partially or completely. I could fix it myself if I had to, but dont quite have the cash layin around to drop into the $300 ecstuning kit (+ a couple tools) at the moment.

There is the slight chance that the thermostat is out as well so I thought I might get a good overview of my situation and seek advise before I go further. If I have no chance of fixing this with a simple $20 thermostat job then I really need to put that money towards the bigger picture instead of trial and error.

So here is the situation:

1. The top radiator hose gets hot, while the bottom hose stays pretty cool. (I am aware this could be caused by the pump or a stuck thermostat right?)
2. If I start the car with the overflow tank open, there is enough cirulation to splash coolant out of the resivoir at idle. This should also bleed any air in the system so I dont think that an air bubble is the case.
3. The car will overheat even at idle if I let it go long enough.
4. If I turn the heater on the temperature will slowly creep back down, and the air does blow warm.
5. The fans only come on with the A/C, so I think the switch is bad, although this doesnt seem to cause the main issue since the radiator isnt even getting a chance to circulate the whole system. I dont think the fans have worked right since I bought the car 6 months ago but its never caused a problem so Ive never noticed until now.
6. If I pull the bottom hose and thermostat/housing off the block, I have read I should be able to inspect the water pump impeller visually, can anyone verify this?

So now I've got my fingers crossed that I can fix this quickly and cheaply. I know the pump and timing belt job probably needs to be done ASAP anyways, but if I can afford to wait, that is a better option. The coolant sensor is probably still good because it will pull boost and drop the Coolant temp light in the cluster, and the engine is genuinely hot. So do I have a shot in hell at the thermostat just being stuck or is it just wishful thinking? Is there anyway I can test the thermostat without spending the money to replace anything right away (such as removing the part completely and letting the system freeflow from a cold start if its safe)?

Fast input would be greatly appreciated, this car is my only source of transport. Please help.

 

On a complete sidenote: does anyone know the measurements of the intercooler core on the 180TT? If I have to tear apart the passenger side of the car and expose the intercooler anyways, I may as well fabricate and install my nitrous fogger while I'm in there.

I would like to have it ready ahead of time, so the measurements would give me something to do while I put together the rest of the money to get this thing running right again. At least that would make a full day of labor for what is usually a simple job seem worth it.

 

my water pump just went out on friday and it looks like I'm needing a new water pump, timing belt, and some sorta sensor, in otherwords about $1400 of my hard earned money goin into my car... [&o]

 

C'mon guys, show some luff and help me get her back in the action.

 

air in system bottom hose cold is a dead giveaway plus any of the other things you mention look for a bleed nipple on the hoses going to the heater matrix and bleed from their ( ensure the heater is set to hot ) this will ensure the heater matrix will be bled, bleeding just from the cap only gets rid of some of the air in many cases but on these TTs it seems to stick around

 

ok if this were me---i would replace the thermostat while i do the timing belt job. your gambleing with your cars engine by not doing the timing belt job. also replace the coolant temp sensor and maybe some of those radiator hoses. i dont think you can get at the water pump without almost doing the timing belt job. 400 bucks is a lot better than 5500 300 for kit and 100 for tools (engine support bridge)

 

No doubt if I do the complete water pump job its going to be a complete kit. The pump, belt, tensioners, T-Stat the works. Im trying to get by for a couple weeks without overhauling the cooling system though. Is there any chance a simple T-Stat swap would fix this by itself?

I will try finding that bleed valve mentioned above, and see if that helps. I dont know how the air would have gotten in there, I've had the car for a little over 5 months or so, and it just randomly overheated one day. Unless the air was trapped in the heater core and the use of the heater with the onset of cooler weather released it into the system.

If I have to buy the whole shabang its going to be probably over a month before I can get the TT rolling again. Dont know That I can mentally cope with that fact.

Im going to pull the T-Stat housing today and see what I can see, at least theres a parts store at the end of my street. IF I can get away with a $20 fix at least I can walk to pick up the parts.

 

Tried some variatins on the system testing.

The coolant resivoir will only buuble and broil with the heater on. and the heat alternates from warm to cool. I still cant get the lower hose or the radiator to warm up. The car will not overheat without actually driving around now, before it was overheating at idle at a dead stop. Now I can hold the RPM at 3k and the needle will not move, until I put the car in gear and physically drive it.

I dont get it. Its looking pretty grim. Either Im having multiple component failures or there was a massive air bubble left in the heater core from whoever flushed the system last. Ive tried squeezing both hoses with the car moving to force some circulation an maybe break some of the possible air out.

I cant find this elusive bleeder valve for the heater system. Ive found where the hoses break away from the main system, and where they go into the firewall, but no valves.

Is there any Audi techs on this site that could offer some pearls of wisdom? Maybe some alternatives to properly diagnosing the problem before I invest in parts. I would be pretty upset if I saved the money, bought the complete cooling system overhaul with the timing belt and everything. Spent a whole day installing everything, and it was still malfunctioning because of some stupid air in the system.

What is the proper way to completely bleed the system? I'm doing the best I can but its still gurgling and I swear I can feel air bubbles going through the top hose, or maybe they are impeller parts, who knows.

If this thing didnt have a 100% batting average with the ladies (not that, thats why I bought it. Im a 4th generation gearhead) I would be pretty upset.

 

how many miles on the car? if its anywhere near 60K, i'd go ahead and do the timing belt kit.

http://www.dieselgeek.com/Categories...l+1.8T+Engines

$259, and you don't need no stickin engine support, just a block of wood on the edge of the oil pan.

Kit includes a new water pump, and a thermostat. Don't forget the $6 bottle of pentosin antifreeze.

No offense, but if you can't afford this kit, it may be time to sit down and decide if you can really afford the car, because there isn't much that's going to come cheap.

Good luck with it.

 

Thank you guys. Whats up achTTung, its been awhile.

Its not that I cant afford the kit, its the fact that Im between jobs, and its the holidays, so times are tight. I knew what I was getting into buying a European AWD turbo Coupe, but you can only plan so much into the future.

I talked to the head service tech at the local Volvo dealership I was working at(not ideal I know, but better then going it alone). He gave me some things to try, so Im gonna go turn some wrenches and hope I get lucky.

I realize that the Timing belt and pump need to be done, and if it comes down to it then thats what I'll do. But If I can get the car running even for a few more weeks while I put together the money that would be fantastic. Thats all Im trying to accomplish.

For anyone else running into this predicament and for future search reference heres what the tech suggested:

Take out the thermostat and put it in a pot of water on the stove, and heat it up. It should pop open at the designated temperature. Stock being 190 degrees. He also said its safe to run the car with no thermostat temporarily to see if the problem persists. Do NOT let the car run year round in this state (common sense, its there for a reason).

So Im going to go get a new thermostat, coolant sensor and some G12 and cross my fingers. I DO plan on replacing the waterpump ASAP along with the related parts. Even if it is still good, I dont like the idea of a failure prone plastic pump in my car at all. The mileage is in the 80k's and I have no way to know if any of the parts have been replaced before (I boght it w/ more then 60k) so just as a precaution I will be doing the necessary work as soon as I am finacially able.

I'll post back with some results.