5.09
0
Enabled
4.8
3080
178.2
13.12
109.08

5.99
0
Enabled
5.69
3320
191.7
19.68
138.03

6.9
0
Enabled
6.59
3640
191.7
17.63
132.03

7.8
6
Disabled
7.49
3800
191.7
18.04
132.64

I did some logs with my Vag-Com and I came up with some info that I am not to sure about. In the FAQ on vortex it says that the maf reading should be about 170 g/s in WOT to redline. Mine is highlighted in BOLD. I tried a little run and as you can see I got up to 3800 rmps or about 21psi at that time and it started to studder and I got my "misfires" My question to those that have Vag-Com is if you can do a run, log measuring block 002 and let me know what your MAF sensor says in g/s. I would really appreciate it. Also if anyone has anything ideas it would be appreciated. Remember this all happened after I removed my cover of my VTDA. Am I sucking too much air for the MAF to handle? I only get misfires in cyl #4. I have changed the plug and moved the coil pack to cyl # 3 and still get misfires in cyl #4. Any help anyone....thanks!

EDIT: No Cel's lol....

 

what is your engine code?

 

nevermind i just read your sig and realised who this was. you are running alot of air but should only lead to a lean condition that should be compensated by a correction map. first thin i am thinking is spark plugs. not neccesarily they are bad but bad gapping for the increased air flow. if the do look good take them down between .26 and .22

 

.026-.022, that seems a little excessive. .028 should be more than enough for his power level and then some.

Erin, the filter wont suck in any more than the turbo demands, removing the cover has nothing to do with it.

 

i used to always work with the same numbers but a recently built motor i did would not work a .28. it really did have to go down to .22 , and again first inspect the plugs themselves.

 

They are at .28 right now I double checked them, how should they look, they are greyish but not black or white and no carbon or oil buildup....what is the block for a/f ratio...anyone know?

N/M is block 32 and it it should stay around zero, a negative value means its running rich and a positive value, in bank 2 that is, means that your running rich. Hope this helps to someone.

 

MAF - Click here to check if your MAF is bad. Mass air flow meter is used to measure the air going into the engine. It is located on the outlet of the airbox, and housed in a cylindrical tube. The ECU reads the MAF signal, and injects fuel in proportion to the airflow. There are a few different ways the MAF can fail. The MAF can get coated with oil, and will not read properly. This is common if it happens right after installing a CAI, or a K&N filter. It can be cleaned out with 99% isopropyl alcohol, or a quality electronics cleaner. Remove the sensor from the housing and clean the sensor element.
MAF sensors also go bad due to too much airflow. On a car with a larger turbo the airflow is so high that the MAF element will get burned out from the excess air flow. It is common to increase the size of the housing to prevent this (other modifications required).
To check for a BAD MAF the best way is with a VAG com. Block 002 show air mass from the sensor. At idle the air flow should be 2-4 grams/second. With a wide open throttle run to redline the reading should show up to 170 g/s on a chipped car. Look for jumpy readings in the MAF, which can indicate a problem. More details here http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-c....html if you suspect your MAF is bad, one way to test it is to unplug the MAF, often if the MAF is giving false readings and upsets the fueling. If you unplug it, the ECU will ignore the MAF and run off of baseline tables. Be careful, as a boost leak or a vacuum leak can be miss-diagnosed as a bad MAF, because they will throw off the readings on the MAF. (Air sneaks around the MAF).


Quote from the vortex FAQ....now I idle at 1K and so my MAF is around 4 g/s at those rpms.....

 

yes greyish. But do take your a/f reading with a grain of salt, its from a narrowband o2 sensor. Only trust the vvt cars with a wbo2

This still could be that it hasnt adjusted to you fixing the gasket leak. You can reset the ecu and that would be faster, but im leaning towards the ecu hasnt adapted back from the leak. Just read the last part from the FAQ about leaks being misdiagnosed as a bad maf. It could still be taking in more air than needed do to thinking it needs is due to the previous leak.

 

Ya well I dont have one of those Nate lol....

 

edited previous post.

I said that because people may take it as accurate readings.