OK here is the story.... I was driving and ran hard against a car and during the run my car lost alot of HP and became really rough in the engine. It sounded like a motorcycle exhaust and the egine was bouncing around more than it should. Check engine light started blinking too. All other readings were good. Hooked it up to my VAG-COM and it threw about 15 codes at me. Things like inatke temp too high, o2 sensor, maifold pressure too high to cylinder 1 & 3 misfire (the big problem). I cleared the codes and started the car again and the only 2 codes were cylinder 3 misfire and cylinder misfire. I guess the car got too hot even thought he temp guage said perfect. So I know I need a big FMIC, My questions is will a FMIC cool the coolant, intake O2, and all that stuff or does it just cool the intake. Basically I think everthing in my car got to hot so I need to cool it all down. So I was wondering if a FMIC will help cool everything?

Also any Ideas on the cyclinder misfire? I hope I didnt mess it up.

Thanks.

Steve

 

The FMIC will only cool the charged intake air. This will prevent detonation and knock, which it sounds like may have been your problem. If the ECU sees a certain number of knock counts, it will begin retarding ignition timing to prevent the onset of dangerous conditions (i.e. detonation) inside the cumbustion chambers. You said it sounded like a "motorcycle engine", which was probably due to the fact it retarded timing like crazy. This is all mere speculation though and just my opinion. In addition, I would consider testing the coil packs for resistance because you may have a bad coil pack. I'll look this up in my manual when I get home. I'm on vacation right now.

 

Now that I looked at your mods list, it seems to me you are sucking in alot of air and overrunning the poor sidemount intercooler. It gets heatsoaked and your charged air temps start soaring and as a result, you get the onset of knock. This in turn is killing your performance and the engine runs like a whimp because it is pulling so much timing to keep from failing. A FMIC should see you big drops in charged air temps (at least 100 degrees depending on the set-up) and get you the performance you desire. I'd still check that coil pack though on cylinder 3, and the rest of them for that matter. If you do not have a Bentley CD, perhaps someone who has their handy can look up the test specs. You should only need a multimeter to test it, most likely you will be testing to see the resistance in the coil. Too much resistance will cause a weak spark and could cause the engine light code for misfire. If no one can get you this info before I get back home in a few days, I will send it to you.

 

Thanks I will check it out. My new turbo runs at a high PSI so I know I need a good FMIC ASAP. Once the car cooled all the codes except the cylinder misfires went away. I hope I didnt burn up the coilpacks. Once the engine is really cool I will have to check all my intake connections to make sure they are tight. How much do coilpacks cost? Thanks for your help.

 

ecstuning.com has them at $140 for all of them(i think) do u have a boost gauge? what psi do u hit?

 

I have Unitronic tuning on my ECU to go with the new turbo and they require the use of a boost controller to be set at 19-20 psi which is what I have it at. So I know its getting hot. I saw online that VW and Audi was suppose to recall their coilpacks for 2001 and 2002 but I dont remeber hearing anything from them on this so I am calling them in the morning to see about that. But the sight said what bad coil packs will do: cylinder misfires, sluggish acceleration, rough running, etc. All that is happening to my car right now so I know that my coil packs are bad. So hopefully I havent hurt anything but the coil packs which my vag com says is the only problem right now but that is just running the car in the garrage and driving it. So with a FMIC cooling the intake air that will help keep everything else cool? Cuz initially I had about 15 codes saying temps too high on coolant, O2 sensors, intake temps, etc. Im hoping the cooler inatke air will keep this from happening again. Thanks for your help.

 

I hear forge is good but kinda expensive. Are there any other FMIC just as good but maybe less $$$? I see that the forge has a new intake mani which is where the extra $$$$ are. And now for a stupid question does forge hook to the existing intercooler and if not would it be better to do that? Thanks.

I checked out ECS and they have the coil packs for $104 so after I call Audi and see if they will replace or not I will try them.

 

It does not, the only intercooler that we make that does so is for the new FSI motor.

 

look into apr's new front mount intercooler. i will most likey go with thier z style intercooler for the 225 and they make a C style intercooler for the 180s little cheaper than forge and they claim its better than forge, pressure drop wise. keeps everthing eelse cool like the radiator and everthing else behind the intercooler.

 

Sounds good thanks for the help. I had seen the APR but wasnt sure if it was as good. Is there any reason the forge puts in a new intake manifold? Cuz that alone is about 300 to 400 dollars I think. I guess I will go with the APR one thanks again.