Alright so i got some stuff in the mail...

4bar fpr
3.2 rear dual honeycomb vallence
MBC
Turbo Timer/boost gauge
my licence plate

Total time working = 6 hours (i was havin fun takin stuff apart)

So i didnt install in the MBC yet, but i got everything else in, quite the easy install except the turbo timer... got the boost gauge hooked up tho, definately made it easier doing the fpr and the boost gauge at the same time...

Well i got the boost gauge part working and i hit 11.1 psi in second gear... didnt drive it much just around the block, so im not sure if the turbo timer is working or not... but i had to figure out the wires on the ignition myself, and after taking out the airbag (yes i unhooked the battery) and putting it back in and drove it i have the airbag light on in the dash? the horn works so its plugged back in, but how do i reset that?

oh and i have the radio code... 0384... how do i put that in??? thank you for the help in advance

 

Turbo timer = waste of time and money.

 

what turbo timer? thats the only mod on my car i didnt install myself(it was also the first mod i did when i didnt know too much about my car) i have since seen how it is hooked up and its fairly easy. did you wire it into the E-Brake? its a safety feature so no one can steal the car while its still running. the timer doesnt activate untill the ebrake is up....and will shut the car off if the ebrake is put down.....

 

and putting it back in and drove it i have the airbag light on in the dash? the horn works so its plugged back in, but how do i reset that? - mine went away after a few cycles or you can reset you ecu (unplug the battery for 10min)

oh and i have the radio code... 0384... how do i put that in??? thank you for the help in advance - should be the fm2 and and rds buttons together (should be on top of each other). Push them in together and hold for a couple seconds and when you let go you will get to put in your code. Hit the 1-6 buttons, hit 1 until the number reaches 0, 2 until you get to 3 all the way to 4 and then hit the fm2 and rds buttons again for a few seconds and your radio will go back to fm1 preset 1.

 

turbo timers are a waste of money unless its on the track but it looks good on the console ( most people know its for show and does nothing ) 1/4 milers need them but on the road a waste of time

 

its hooked up to the ebrake good... that was a pain in the *** the wire down there is so skinny, and theres no room between those seats.. but it was done... the question is in the ignition, what wires do u hook up where... its not keeping the car on

and for cincytt or anyone else whos done this... i put in the MBC and the boost gauge records peaks around 19... its not going into limp mode and its movin... but i havent put in a diode...

 

I had a Apexi on my last car and it can tell when you are pushing the car hard or not and would adjust the time accordingly. Most of the time it was at the min of 10secs when i got out but when i drove it hard all the way to the place i was going it would be in over a min of run time.

In other words. If you take it easy on your last few mins of your trip your good to let it sit for a few secs while you gather your things and get out.

 

the question is in the ignition, what wires do u hook up where... its not keeping the car on - you need a ignition source, accesory source and a constant 12v source. There are a few write ups on vortex that should help your trouble. If you have a volt meter you can just test the wires under the steering columb because you will find all you need there.

and for cincytt or anyone else whos done this... i put in the MBC and the boost gauge records peaks around 19... its not going into limp mode and its movin... but i havent put in a diode... If you have one quick spike it may not, but you will hit limp soon enough. Do some more runs, for all you know it may already be chipped. If you have a 6800 rev limit you are not, ~7200 you are chipped.

 

again not my area but the turbo is cooled by coolant and oil so negating the use of a turbo timer

 

dave, the problem is the oil not moving and when it cools.It can leave carbon deposits in the turbo. If it continues to circulate, the oil will not cause this and you will prolong the turbos life. Are they needed, no, but if you turn off a hot, hard ran car you will kill the turbo quicker.