i bet its working most of the time.

i've posted 'the haldex roll out test' procedure a couple of times here, try that, both when you think the car is acting fine, and after a long highway drive.

I can tell you for sure that there is an operating range, both high and low, that the haldex won't engage. The numbers I can't remember. I doubt the dealership would be much help either, but there is info on the web. I just f-disked my PC that had a bunch of haldex info on it, or I'd send you the PDFs I'd found.

 

Well my CEl isnt on and my Haldex is F'd. I dont think it would ever come on, Haldex isnt engine related/ for real; scan for codes is like step 1...

 

yeah i have read about the roll out test. I think im going to pull my fuse tm and see how the car acts. then after 10-15 of drivin w/ the fuse out im going to put it back in. I will look around a little to find the operating temps and see what it says.

again the scanner i have will not say anything if the cel is not on. the scanners autozone/advanced/oriely's would have will be the same way. The only way to get any information the VAG-COM can provide would be going to the dealership. Since the dealership charges for everything im going to take a pass.
and your right haldex is not engine related so that just shows again what i have will not show anything. I would have to use vag-com or go to the dealership.

 

ok well there is def a max/min operating temp for haldex. Im going to try the fuse thing tm and im going to jack my cars butt up and check the fluid.

 

if you're checking, you might as well be changing. Kinda hard to check it, and once you get that far, you're halfway to changing it anyway.

 

i dont have the fluid or filter though.

would the fluid just be gear lube?
that stuff stinks lol

 

no no no.

fluid is haldex fluid. not gear oil. comes in what is essentially a caulk tube.
You SHOULD be able to get fluid and filter from the dealer if you need to do it NOW, but you'll pay more. ECS sells it for a little less, and if this is your first time changing it, and it sounds like it is, you'll also need a filter wrench.

Fluid and filter from ECS is $70. WITH the schwaben filter wrench is $126. I use 'the H-wrench' which I believe is only sold thru the modshack at this point, for $50. Mine is serial number 018, I got in early when Warren aka StillJester on AW was selling them direct for $40.

 

oh, and you'll need to either:

A. get the car high enough you can hold a caulk gun with the plunger fully extended vertically under the rear of the car.

or

B. Get a short piece of hose you can push into the drain hole of the haldex unit, and onto the end of the caulk tube so you can push the fluid in from an angle.

Either way, old fluid comes out of the drain, new fluid goes back in the drain, and then you quickly put the drain plug back in place spilling as little as possible. Option A is the one to go for if you can, since the tapered end of the caulk tube will seal around the drain hole easily.

You're given slightly more than you need to fill the unit because its expected you'll spill a little, so don't totally freak out if you don't get it ALL in.

What works best for me is to pull the caulk tube away, and quickly put my thumb over the drain. Have the drain plug and hex wrench close by, and with your free hand get the plug on the hex wrench, then quickly swap your thumb for the plug. Usually don't loose more than a drop or two.

 

ok well i may just order that stuff from ecs.
im going to pull my fuse and test that today though.

 

Yes ^^ Change your fluid and filter. I bet your fluid is low and it's over heating. It cant hurt, since it's due every 20k.

I also have the modshack filter tool. Works good and cheep. Looks like a huge socket.