thanks, so is the front to back ratio stock something like (60 to 40)???

 

hmm... I wonder why... oh, wait

http://www.goapr.com.au/products/haldex.html

goapr.com.au

.au

au= Australia

 

yeah, that apr link was just for the info on the controller. if you want one go to mjm. they have the best price right nowi believe. i just ordered mine yesterday because i heard the price was going up to around $1000 pretty soon.

 

I am planning on upgrading mine as well. But, I gotta say, this is the first time I heard anyone say it easy, or at least NOT a PITA.

I heard that the actual "plugging" it in is not hard, its getting to the ba$tard that is the issue. Can you share your experience with that please? Thanks.

 

its like playing tetris. pay attention to what angles you used to work the stock one out, and reverse it to get the blue one in. only trick is that you wanna be careful about dirt putting the blue one in, which is why you dont want to just shove it around under there. 3 hrs is the high limit i'd say, took me a little over an hr, with a haldex fluid and filter change, and I didn't even bother putting the car over the pit.

 

So what I am understanding is that I need to make damn sure everything is clean under there and I should be able to do it 1 to 3 hours.
I read that I need to get the fluid that comes with the tool, some kind of special wrench. Are there any odd ball tools other than that? Thanks.

 

There is a guy over at Fortitude selling the home made Haldex wrenches for 25 bucks.
A guy with a 3.2 S-Line put an Orange Controller in his car and he has a lift in his garage and he said it took him 5 hours to install. It was a real Pita and the rubber band to hold the gasket in place snapped and he had to dig it out of the haldex. then he tried a zip tie and it workeda lot better but the gasket never lined up straight and the top bolt was impossible to reach and tighten. But once it was done he said it was the best mod he has done to his car to date.
Well, he has a Turbo kit sitting in his garage now so I am sure it will be the better mod
Oh, his TT is all Track with HUGE Brakes up front and rear, Full Roll Cage, removable steering wheel, etc.... He had to go with 19 inch OZ's to clear the front brakes the 18's were rubbing.

 

crazy, but if it took him 5 hours, he's got serious problems.

Do what it takes to get the rubber band TIGHT and it holds fine. I tied a knot in it to shorten it up. Makes things easier if you shaved down a hex wrench to get around some of the clearance issues(hindsight advice), but I managed w/o doing it.

Yes, clean as possible is good, otherwise you risk pushing dirt into the haldex coupling, and you can't see the ports in the unit, so you wouldn't know if you did, not good.

ECS sells the haldex fluid changekit with or w/o the tool, Ialready had an H-wrench (available from modshack.info). You'll lose some fluid swapping the controllers, and you're supposed to change the fluid every 20K anyway, sobuy the oil.I was talking toRay the other night, he mentioned changing the oil sooner than 20Kwith an aftermarket controller.. not a bad idea.

 

Achttung, after running with the Blue Haldex for a while do you still think it was a worth while mod and
worth the expense? Is there really a difference in off the line accelleration or does it only feel different
when you hit the corners?

 

you're not going to feel much difference in acceleration off the line, where you'll feel it most is in the corners. The car doesn't push as bad as it does stock with the blue controller.

I didn't switch to the blue controller for performance reasons though, my stock controller was faulty, and its actually cheaper in most cases to buy the blue controller in place of a stock controller. Given that, if I had money to spend, I'd do it, but only after upgrading the suspension/sway bars. Those will have a bigger effect for the money, but I still think the blue controller is great.