Audi TT The Audi TT line, in both the coupe and roadster combines Audi's All Wheel Drive performance with the feel of a European sports car.

doing a fakeliminator turbo on a budget.

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  #11  
Old 01-20-2009, 12:57 AM
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i think people expect too much when going to a gt2x kit, thinking i have a "big turbo" not realizing it is just a bit more power than a tt 225. i figure i could lower my boost 3 psi to get the power i want therefore lowering my iat. i'm waiting for a gti guy to blow his motor or sell the car and remove the parts.... then i'll save some money. i guess another option would be an aftermarket kit with some oem type heat shield covering the turbo and manifold.
 
  #12  
Old 01-20-2009, 10:05 AM
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I dont get this lower the IAT's you keep posting. They can only go so low. A good fmic will bring the temps well into check and if you want it as low as possible, get w/m inj and you will have them as low as they will possible go and then you can make more power by adding in another few degs of timing. You will be looking at another 15-25whp and double that in tq
 
  #13  
Old 01-20-2009, 11:16 AM
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the lower iat is peak not constant. the less efficient a turbo is running, ie. k04-001 at 21psi, the more heat it produces. therefore the Iantake air temp. spikes up. Even a good front mount fluctuates. granted the temp will be kept in control, i want it to remain close to constant with only about 10-20 deg F difference, from cruising to full boost. We have an Mr2 that is twin turboed with Aerochargers and it does close to that at 12 psi. no heat! it puts down a constant 320 hp at 10 psi 400+ at 17psi. basically the lower the boost the lower the IAT, therefore your car will perform very linearly. now the trick is to choose a turbo that will put down your desired HP in its center efficiency island. meaning 1.2-1.3 bar at the cfm we need. the gt28r is probably not the ideal for me but it will probably still keep me smogable. going to a gt28rs will most likely fail me.
 
  #14  
Old 01-20-2009, 11:47 AM
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i just bought this turbo and it was a pain to install and then to get tuned. its also only oiled cooled. since i got it tuned it is a big diff. in power but i personalyy wish i would have saved up for a diff one. But thats just me is worth the money though.
 
  #15  
Old 01-20-2009, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by precision tt
the lower iat is peak not constant. the less efficient a turbo is running, ie. k04-001 at 21psi, the more heat it produces. therefore the Iantake air temp. spikes up. Even a good front mount fluctuates. granted the temp will be kept in control, i want it to remain close to constant with only about 10-20 deg F difference, from cruising to full boost. We have an Mr2 that is twin turboed with Aerochargers and it does close to that at 12 psi. no heat! it puts down a constant 320 hp at 10 psi 400+ at 17psi. basically the lower the boost the lower the IAT, therefore your car will perform very linearly. now the trick is to choose a turbo that will put down your desired HP in its center efficiency island. meaning 1.2-1.3 bar at the cfm we need. the gt28r is probably not the ideal for me but it will probably still keep me smogable. going to a gt28rs will most likely fail me.
All you need is a wmi kit or larger/better fmic. Both will keep the iat at almost ambient while the wmi will allow you to also increase timing more since it will both cool more and increase octane rating. Both will be well below 1/2 of a new turbo and do exactly what you are looking to do while still adding power and not needing a new tune, just add more timing via lemmiwinks/unisettings
 
  #16  
Old 01-20-2009, 01:00 PM
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i have been looking at wmi and we have a spare kit but i am hesitating to install it, one because its for the mr2 and second because i wanted something that did not need constant refilling. i might just have to do it though. this is where my top end is going. its to timing pull.
 
  #17  
Old 01-20-2009, 02:11 PM
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A decent size tank will hold enough for 2 tankfuls depending on how you drive. Nice thing is it only works when you boost to the setting
 
  #18  
Old 02-03-2009, 06:02 AM
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Default GT2871r works great. The cost is great too.

I have an 02' a4 1.8t Quattro with the Gt2871r Elim. kit and going from stock to the apr chip to this makes an amazing difference. It did cost a pretty penny for the kit. I got mine from eurocode tuning for a little under $3000 & this included the better 550cc injectors. It brought me up to the 350hp mark and definitely gave me the extra power I was looking for. You also have to take into consideration the other components needed to compliment the kit. I had already installed all the recommended parts such as: full exhaust(neuspeed), stage3 South bend clutch(stock clutch failed around 65,00 miles so I replaced it with a beefier clutch because I knew I was going to upgrade the turbo eventually),I have a forge 007 DV which i replaced 3 months later with a forge hybrid dv/bov. I bought the kit from eurocode because they include a free ATP high flow turbo manifold which I had ported and polished. The kit is also complimented with Revo software and I bought the select plus tuner to switch to pre-set programs, but I have yet to get it to work. hopefully they will send a replacement. But I am impressed with the kit overall and the 71 housing is capable of 450Hp if you swap some of the internals. Any body else have or enjoy the gt28 elims? I think it still needs some more power so I am trying to find out how much it will be to buy forged rods, and better pistons so i can bore it 30 over to increase the compression and make the engine capable of the potential 450hp.
ps. I also have evolution racewerks competition intercooler. I tried with the cheap $200 ebay kit and grew so tired of it I dropped $1300 on the EV Racewerks kit. If you have any suggestions on how to break the 400+hp mark with what parts i should be looking into your input would be helpful. Right now I'm looking into a coilover suspension and sway bars & yes Ive upgraded the brakes too.
 
  #19  
Old 02-03-2009, 09:23 AM
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A4 and the 180 TT elims are COMPLETELY different. Our housings are extremely restrictive and hinder both power and spool much more than your setup. This is why to ditched the bolt on turbos for the transverse cars.

Also, by the time you buy everything like high flow manifold etc, you could of got a real turbo kit and have it make more power and spool faster
 
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