Empty spot where battery/stock airbox used to be. You can see the 2gauge cable I ran for my (+) lead just poking out at the end of the wiring raceway going to the relays/fuses in the car.

I ran from the starter, up that black 'raingutter' looking raceway, cut a hole in the rubber grommet where the rest of the wiring harnesses cross thru the firewall. From there I ran it above everything I could thru the dash, until it dropped down behind the center console. I ran it under the console to the back edge. At this point, I have no seat, no carpet, no cover for the spare tire (which I don't carry anymore). You'll see this in these next few pics.


Oh, you'll see from this angle, the copper tab I made to get power to the fuse panel that normally sits on top of the battery. In stock form, it bolts to the battery cable, pretty much at the battery, but there is little chance of that anymore, and you need something. Hole sized for 3/8ths on one side, and if I remember right, 3/16ths on the other side. It's bolted right to the lug on the starter. It's made out of a 1/8" thick piece of copper. More than enough.


Here's my 150A fuse holder I cut from acrylic. Again sized for 3/8ths bolts (standard for most wiring). 1/4-20 bolts hold the frame together, and space everything away from the side of the car so it won't ground. I used bumper washers on the back side, and it is drilled thru the sheetmetal. Careful in this location, you have fuel lines near there on the back side. I still need to spray some undercoating on the bolt heads to help waterproof/protect the area.


Another angle. I didn't cut all my bolts to the same length (had nothing close to what I needed, so the 1/4-20's started at about 4" long. Wanted to set it so the outermost nuts would only expose 1 thread or so, but like that, obviously, it's not too square. Oh well, it doesn't affect function, and you probably wouldn't notice if you were just looking at the car.
Another plus to this location is the rubber/foam padding glued to the sides of the spare well. Another added level of protection against grounding out.


Heres a view of the battery mounted. The wires are tucked in pretty tight behind the battery box, which I don't particularly like. If they're in the open, they're not touching anything, and if they're not touching anything, they can't rub thru and ground. I have some electrical wrap I want to put on the cables for another layer of protection. (you catching a theme here?)


Another angle.
I decided I'd cut power on the ground side, which supposedly may save sensative electronics from a voltage spike (or maybe amperage, what the hell is ohms law?). Anyway, if you cut power on the (+) side, there is potential that you flood your electronics with to much power, frying stuff. If you do it on the (-) side, I guess it's not an issue. I'm not an electrician, but I'd rather play it safe than have a buttload of issues I have no clue how to diagnose.
So, wires go from the (-) side of the battery, thru the kill switch, and then ground to the frame. I'm using the big hand screw that used to hold the spare down. I'll probably bolt another lug to the body in the future, just so that wire isn't sticking out into the middle of my hatch.
The (+) side wire comes off the battery, to my fuse block, and then up to the starter.

Not pictured is the ligher gauge wire I used to kill power to my fuel pump. There are 2 pairs of lugs on the underside of the cutoff, which are seperate circuits. The big set is used for the battery, the small set I used for the fuel pump. That means you need to cut a wire from your fuel pump harness, and extend one side back to the switch, and then from the switch, back to the wire harness to complete the circuit. There are 4 wires on the pump harness, located under the passenger side access cover. 2 are thicker, one of the two is brown, the other colored. Brown is ground, the other is what I cut and ran to my cutoff. Tape/seal everything up as best as you can, that metal access cover is all that's sealing the elements outside of your car.

The reason you're killing power to your fuel pump is that by putting your cutoff on the (-) side of the circuit, you're only isolating the battery. You still have an alternator that, for a while anyway, will be more than happy to continue to supply power to your car, and it'll continue to run. The fuel pump was the closest point to my cutoff that makes for a definate kill. No fuel, no run. It takes about 4 seconds for the car to shut down after flipping the switch, due to residual fuel pressure. That's at idle. I wouldn't want to try it with the engine revved. It's gonna be awefully lean for a second there before it quits.
Other location to try to kill the car would be removing power to the coilpacks, which may be a better option for those interested only in adding a kill switch, but not relocating. It'd be much closer, and the effects would be immediate.


Any questions, or requests for more pics, or more detailed pics of something, let me know. I have a bunch, and I can always take more.

 

Nice job Matt. Any thought to relocating the kill switch somewhere more accessible?

 

Looks very nice!!

 

Quite nice. So how much room to do approx have opened in the bay?

 

I have a remote pull for the kill switch.

In a track situation, you'd want it outside the car so the corner workers can access it quickly, but I forsee some ******* in a parkinglot killing power to my car while I'm getting groceries, so I'm not sure where to put it.

 

Wow. Good job. Looks sweet.

 

Tom, I missed your post, I think you posted as I was writing my response to Beachchair.

As for room opened up... well, before mounting the water/meth pump, I could lay 2 one gallon washer fluid bottles in the engine bay with room left over, and enough room above to close the hood. Even after I finish my stainless water/meth tank, I'll still have a decent amount of free space.

You can clearly see my starter, motor mount, and frame rail, so while the pics dont really illustrate the depth being 2 dimensional and all, you should be able to get an idea of how deep that gap is. You can't go any lower in that corner of the car.

 

wow ~ i wish i was more mechanically creative (if that even makes sense). Nice relo!

 

With a relocated battery, won't you have to have a kill switch on the outside of the car if you use it at the track?

 

very basic mod if you could call it that and yes it gives more space in the engine compartment which your green air filter needs but you failed to provide through cold air " there has to be a front air capture vent " which delivers cold air otherwise its wastes and draws hot air from the engine which is how your system is setup