is this true on all chipped tts?

 

yes. Same goes for a heat range colder than stock. You can run stock heat range on a 180, but dont think you should do it on a 225

 

So I see there are different variations of the N75 valve for sale. ECS has their own while some other sites have the N75J or H version. Is there a difference I should look into? ECS says "racing" and compatible w/ GIAC and gives a general run down of what's different between oem/aftermarket.

Also while reading more about turbos, it says there is an actuator inside the turbo that opens/closes to allow the proper amount of exhaust flow over the turbine for boost. Is there an easy way to monitor it's motions? Or just have to get down in there w/ a flash light and watch it?

 

I would see if that is the problem before swapping it. The aftermarket n75's will hold a couple more psi and thats it. you cant adjust it, the only reason why i dont like them.

The actuator is the wastegate, you cant monitor with visually. You know its working when the boost stops climbing at a certian psi.

 

So now the mystery is gone. Beyond cold this tuesday it was. Had a mechanic right there as I turned the car over for him. waiting for it to do what it always does. Turned the key and the damned thing went right to ~1200rpm and 19inHG vac. w.t.f.

Past few days too it's been starting up fine *sigh* guess I can't diagnose the problem anytime soon now.

 

anos, i wanted to get an update on this topic - because it seems i am having this exact same problem as you. EXACTLY the same symptoms, and tried exactly the same fixed (then i found this thread). lol.