Clutch VS. Power
#12
RE: Clutch VS. Power
all depends on what your trying to do....say the stock clutch engages around 1500 rpms....the spec grabs around 1900 so you do have to rev higher for it to grab...now launching is a wee bit different too....i;ve only done it like 3 times (not trying to put a new one in anytime soon) and i reved to like 4k and slipped it nice and WOW like the meatloaf song "bat out of hell"
#13
RE: Clutch VS. Power
When I am just driving around and and I start off in 1st I do what they call burping the throttle, basically just pumping the gas to get the rpms to stay up so your not on the gas all the time till the clutch grabs. Then just slowly let out the clutch till it grabs and your good to go. Its different but it works for me.
#16
RE: Clutch VS. Power
I was looking at the eurospec too...
http://www.eurospecsport.com/clutch.htm
2M4 198 CFL 28 SOD Lightweight cast flywheel, VR6 cover, standard 228mm disc, clamp load 450 KG $550
Any opinions on this?
http://www.eurospecsport.com/clutch.htm
2M4 198 CFL 28 SOD Lightweight cast flywheel, VR6 cover, standard 228mm disc, clamp load 450 KG $550
Any opinions on this?
#20
RE: Clutch VS. Power
trust me you dont want a light flywheel....even my 20lb steel flywheel chattered till i raised my idle to 900-1000rpms and just cause its lighter doesnt mean its better....talk to all the guys at spec about Alum vs steel flywheels i did a lot of research on them and steel is the best choice...ask about harmonic balancing
and to add....unless you get the oem dual mass(not recommended) both the steel and alum are still much lighter than stock dual mass..take all three components...pressure plate,clutch disk, and flywheel....still lighter than just the oem dual mass FW
and to add....unless you get the oem dual mass(not recommended) both the steel and alum are still much lighter than stock dual mass..take all three components...pressure plate,clutch disk, and flywheel....still lighter than just the oem dual mass FW