Hey everyone,
So, my clutch pedal stopped working today. Whee!
I got the car towed to the dealer, and they determined that my slave cylinder died at the very least. They're gonna tear the car apart tomorrow to determine if any fluids got onto the flywheel, because if it did, they say I have to get a new one (~$800 for genuine Audi).

My car has 135k miles on it, and it's on the original clutch, so I'm thinking it might be time to just replace the clutch as well, since the car is already taken apart...
My question is, what are everyones thoughts on the clutch and flywheel, Should I go OEM Audi for both, or get a lightweight flywheel and a better clutch (at about the same price, i believe)

I haven't done very much to my car, just a APR chip and a Forge 007 DV. I'm not looking to mod it much and don't take it to the track, so I don't need a super crazy performance clutch.
Any help you guys could provide would be much appreciated!
Thanks!!
Alex

 

at one point, before i knew much about cars, i had a guy (who said he knew a bunch about cars) help me top off my oil in my transmission.

In actuality, he dumped about a quart of oil in the flywheel inspection window.

jackass.


It slipped like hell for a couple days, but eventually, the oil burned off, and I continued driving my somewhat POS 86 Audi 4000S.

I'd see how it goes before you decide to change the clutch. A bunch on here would recommend a change solely on the milage, but I have 144K miles on a car w/ well documented work, and as far as I can tell, Im still on the stock clutch, and going strong.

 

I agree....Never heard of having to change your flywheel because fluid got on it. If the slave is bad yes it has to get changed. Does the clutch clip at all ??? If not no point in wasting $$$ and changing it until you have to !!!

 

The clutch doesn't feel like it slips, but I'm just worried if they're already ripping the car apart down to the transmission, is it worth it just to get it done?

If I were to do it, what do people recommend? Stick with the stock clutch or something aftermarket?

 

Depends.....do you want a firmer clutch. A stock one would be fine if your not planning on any more mods, your choice.

 

Cool. Now I'm just waiting for the callback to see what all got messed up and if it was just the slave or the master as well.
Thanks for the super fast response!

 

If it was me. I put in a new clutch. However, I have no idea how much Audi charges for a clutch.

Typically when they change a clutch they put a new face on the flywheel. (don't they?) That should take care of any fluid on the flywheel. If the fluid got on the clutch disk then the disk will need to be replaced.

Bear in mind it's been a long time since I did any serious wrenching on cars, and those cars were MGs and Triumphs. Not this high Tech German stuff.

like my Audi dealer says "WE screw the other guy and pass the savings on to you"

 

I'd say get an upgraded clutch and either a stock dual-mass or an AM flywheel ($800 for a flywheel is nucking futs) and take it to a Euro car specialist. The dealer will only want to install the OEM stuff (and you probably have to buy it there), and you'll end up spending a lot more for no good reason. Even if you're not going to do big-time mods a new clutch/FW can make a big difference with how the car drives. A lighter FW like a SouthBend 14lb or 19lb would make the 1.8T a lot revvier, and SouthBend clutches have a great reputation. What you're really going to pay for with a clutch is the labor, so you may as well do it right if you're getting it done. A clutch can be DIY, but it'll be a big pain in the a$$

 

Ha! I don't have the skills at all to do the clutch myself... My toolbox consists of screwdriver, a drill and a hammer...

One of my buddies hooked me up with a guy who has a shop that specializes in Audi and VW, so I'm gonna figure out how to tell the dealer sorry and get the car towed to this guy.
His recommendation is to (hopefully) get the flywheel resurfaced as well - funny how the dealer didn't mention that was an option. Also, he said that lightweight flywheels are cool and fun, but they take away driveability a little bit since you have to rev it up more. I'd stick with like the 14 or 19lb, definitely not the 9lb, so I don't know how much of an issue it would be.

People with lighter flywheels, what are your thoughts on driving? Big change or no?

 

FLYWHEEL CONVERSION Part #25405615 - VALEO kit was just installed on my AUDI 2004 TT convertible. Labor was 1320.00 and flywheel 745.00 and fluids 43.00...total cost came to $2,200.00. Estimate was 1825.00 but it came out to 2,200.00. Was able to pick car up within three days. When I picked up my car the alignment was way off and warning sign came on. I took car back and they said it was my alignment and that I could get a tow a go for $80 down the street. I wasn't happy about that. The owner called me the next day and said to bring my audi back in and he will get alignment done .... no charge.

Only 12 months ago I had a $3,000 repair job as no one told me about changing the timing belt before 100,000 miles. Yep, I had to get a new engine in it. Same mechanic 12 months later with a 2,200 bill. Is anything else gonna go wrong?