cincytt,
those missing 3psi, what possible damage would it do to the engine?
if boost is controlled by the mbc and set at hmm 17 psi would that hurt the engine?
in regards to the n75, this controls the wg correct? if this is eliminated would the mbc control this now and as a precaution maybe upgrade the wg to a set spring rate to open at 17 psi or less as a double safety?
but of course after having this mod and headache maybe 4-5 bills later, might as well go revo, apr or giac and or vag-com.

 

cincytt,
those missing 3psi, what possible damage would it do to the engine? - The ecu may think there is a leak and possibly throw a CEL or even throw you into limp, not 100% sure if one, both or none of them would happen. Since the 180 is limiting the ecu from seeing past 11psi and is set to 11psi from the factory, its not seeing anything differnt.
if boost is controlled by the mbc and set at hmm 17 psi would that hurt the engine? No, the ecu will adapt and you will run fine.
in regards to the n75, this controls the wg correct? yes, its a nonadjustable ebc
if this is eliminated would the mbc control this now and as a precaution maybe upgrade the wg to a set spring rate to open at 17 psi or less as a double safety? The mbc would control boost and no reason to upgrade anything else
but of course after having this mod and headache maybe 4-5 bills later, might as well go revo, apr or giac and or vag-com. A diode is $0.25 and then the cost of a mbc and boost gauge which you should already have owning a turbo car. If not, its still less than $100 depending on the parts you buy

 

Can you tell me what that means in english? Cuz Id like to know!

My leak was found and fixed. They are trying to reprogram my ECU so it doesent hit limp mode when it peaks a 26psi. So I should have the car back by tomorrow. FMIC is in the works soon too.

What is the WM inj? What is good? How much? What does it do?

 

Water/methenol injection. It has many benifits, read my post in this thread , Cost is $175 for a basic kit to $300 for a great kit that you want (snowperformance stage 2 or devils own stage 2). For more info, contact scott@usrt at www.usrallyteam.com. He will get you set up with what you need, this is his specialty.

Also you are probably having problems with that boost because you intake air temps (iat) are through the roof since your blowing so much hot air at that psi level. Lower the boost, youshould gain hp that way and have less troubles. 24psi tops

 

Thanks dude your awesome! I will look into both!

 

no luck with the 4.4v1wzd.....
4.3v then it jumps to 4.7v.
cincytt what formula did you use to come up with the 4.4? mind sharing it?
if i decide to go diode then i may have to install a switch to turn it on and off.
most likely i'll be doing revo witht the selectable switch
thanks

 

the diode is so you dont need a chip.

4.3v = 11psi
4.7v = 17psi
doing the math, 4.4v should be right around 14psi

 

let me see if i'm tracking here.....
if the 4.3 is installed, all the ecu would see is 11 psi but in actuallity i may be running above 15, if so would the ecu adapt to fuel air ratio and keep the car from knocking, detonation, pinging?
if it did i would go into limp mode and possibly cel would be on and have to be reset? or simply remove negative power for 10m and reattach?

 

My car only sees 11psi and i run 18-20psi. The cars maf and o2's adjust the fuel to meet the added air. The problem isnt running the psi over what the map tells the ecu your running, its the 225 ecu only seeing 11psi. Like i said, someone can give it a try, they wont hurt anything, just possibly get a cel and/or hit limp at worst. Then you can just take the diode out and no damage done, just time spent.

 

what pertinet date needs to be gather if someone does venture to this mod?
would a vag com be necessary or are there alternatives,
hard to find an awd dyno
thanks for being patient and responsive