Can anyone help me? I am trying to bleed the brakes in my 2001 Audi TT Quattro and can't seem to get it to work. I am using the traditional "pump the brake" method but cannot get a constant flow of fluid out of the caliper. I can hear air escaping around the bleed screw when i have my helper push the brake pedal down. I get a little fluid in the line but it doesn't flow down into the catch container. Is it possible i need to put some teflon tape or something around the threads of the bleed screw to make a good seal in order to get a constant flow? Also i tried to use a Mityvac hand pump and it makes a good vaccum until i crack open the bleed screw then i hear the air escaping but it only pulls a very small amount of fluid into the tube. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

Here's a link for the pedal method:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/auto...o/4213448.html

I usually use a brake fluid pump to pressurize the system and bleed each line, going from the longest to shortest. I then go back and use the pedal method to bleed out the remaining air.

 

thanks, autounion. this is the exact procedure that i am using buy i still can't get a continuous stream of fluid/air to flow from the bleed screw. it starts to flow but it stops before it gets to the catch container. i hear the air coming out so i'm wondering if i need to seal around the treads of the bleed screw in order to get better pressure.

 

I dont know what you mean exactly by the seal around the threads.

However, I would make sure that the bleeder is closed until the brake is fully depressed, then open the bleeder slightly and keep pressure on the brake pedal. This should bleed air out of the lines. Close the bleeder while the brake is depressed, then take pressure off of the pedal. You may need to repeat 10 times or more before clean fluid flows from the bleeder. Also, make sure you do the wheels in the proper order.

 

thats what i've been doing, exactly, but i can't get anything but a small amount of fluid to travel about half way down the tube. it is almost like there is not enough pressure to push the fluid out of the caliper.

by the seal around the threads i just mean where the threads of the bleeder screw come in contact with the caliper- i was just wondering if in need to put some loctite or teflon tape around those threads to create a "seal" because i can hear some air escaping past them as the brake is depressed.

what is happening is when my helper depresses the pedal i open the screw about 1/4 turn then a small amount of fluid with no air bubbles goes into the tube and i hear air come out of the fitting. when the pedal reaches the floor i close the screw but there is so little fluid in the tube that the next time we do it it just trickles into the catch container. it just seems like air is leaking out past the threads instead of out of the opening of the bleeder screw.

thanks for your help.

 

ok, so i tried again last night. i put a little grease around the threads of the bleeder screw to create a seal of sorts. that seemed to do the trick i did all four corners with no air leaking around the bleeder screw and a nice steady stream of fluid going into the catch container.

my only question now is what am i looking for in terms of bubbles in the fluid? are very small bubble ok or do all signs of bubbles/air need to be eliminated. the fronts had no bubbles in the fluid after a couple of containers of fluid. the rears have some very tiny streaming bubbles that continue to come out with the fluid. i'm going to do the rears again tonight just in case those tiny bubbles are harmful.

thanks for your help.

 

ok, so just an update in case anyone else runs into the kind of problems i was having.

i ended up finishing the job with ease after putting a little mound of grease around the base of the bleed screw and pushing it down onto the threads while backing it out- this formed a seal around the bleed screw and did not allow an air in or out passed the threads. i used a mityvac hand pump to finish the job- which worked very well as a one person alternative. i found that it work better when i held it up in the air above the caliper so the bubbles could float up instead of having to be forced down by the fluid.

the only problem i am having now is that the passenger side pad is putting pressure on the rotor at all times and the rotor is getting very hot. i think i just need to loosen the bolt that hold the caliper to the carrier or grease the pins under the dust boots. i hope this will solve the problem.

 

im glad you got the bleeding problem worked out

The bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket need to be really tight or you will get some wicked vibration. You likely have a problem with the guide pins, like you said, or the piston is sticking. You run the risk of warping the rotor if the pressure isnt releived. If it is the piston, you can buy a caliper rebuild kit for cheap. Good luck.

 

Hi my name is mark I would like for someone to tell me the brake bleeding sequence it's is a 2002 A3 aldi 1.8 5 door