Boost Gauge Question
#1
06-16-2007, 06:39 PM
Boost Gauge Question
Hey everyone i want to buy a boost gauge for my TT and i want to get the vent style, i was wondering where is the cheapest to buy it/ its installion hard, what is the size of the gauge i need to use cause i could prob get a gauge cheaper then if i buy it in a package deal any help would be great( oh if anyone wants to sell theres im interested)
Eric
Eric
#2
06-16-2007, 07:50 PM
RE: Boost Gauge Question
Get this: http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/ga...gauge_adapter/
and a 52mm gauge.
That's easiest (after the $200 vent+gauge assembly from some company, I forget who)...now cheapest...you could fab your own adapter or just jam a gauge in there somehow. But the Schwing TT adapter is a good reliable way to do it.
and a 52mm gauge.
That's easiest (after the $200 vent+gauge assembly from some company, I forget who)...now cheapest...you could fab your own adapter or just jam a gauge in there somehow. But the Schwing TT adapter is a good reliable way to do it.
#4
06-18-2007, 12:21 AM
RE: Boost Gauge Question
Here's the AWE kit I referred to, couldn't remember what company made it. I knew it was A-someting-something lol but it's $270:
http://www.awe-tuning.com/pages/shar...IL=ttventgauge
http://www.awe-tuning.com/pages/shar...IL=ttventgauge
#6
06-18-2007, 08:35 AM
RE: Boost Gauge Question
How cheap do you need it to be? I did my install for 35 bucks- the cost of the gauge. If the vent ring is something you dont want to buy, let me know and I'll do a quick writeup. My mod does require a drill and possibly a dremel tool. 
#8
06-18-2007, 10:46 AM
RE: Boost Gauge Question
This autometer gauge with the red bulb cover is great match for the stock lighting and gauges. As all of the parts exposed parts are round without flat edges, my airflow is still good. I lose directional control, but that is acceptable.
[align=center]
[/align]
For starters: I followed the online fotki guides on taking the vent apart. and then glued the outer ring back to part of thethe plastic vent pod (read the guides, you'll understand from that andmy picture)
Materials:
Autometer gaugekit from my local speed shop - 35 bucks. Has vaccum and boost.
Electrical Tape
10-32 machine screws (3) (or whatever size you want that has a high threadcount)
10-32 tap (see above)
Drill
Dremel tool
Small bit for pilot hole
bit for main hole(i think it was 3/16"?)
Glue (super or something like it)
1. I measured out 3 points equally spaced apart from eachother and marked the spots with a sharpie. 1 hole on top, and two on the bottom. Reason being - since the bulk of the weight is towards the front of the vent, I wanted a setscrew at the top aligned perfectly to brace the weight. The bottom two merely hold the gaugesteady.
2. I drilled a pilot hole at each of the marks and then followed up with the bit that closely matched the size of the screws, but made sure it was not oversized, so I could run the tap through it.
* You are screwing into plastic, so you do not*have* to use a tap, but Isuggest it.
The screws I selected were standard 10-32 1/2" paintballgun machine screws. As you cannot fit the pod back into the hole with the heads of the screws sticking out (well, you can with force, but you may NEVER get it back out), I used a dremel tool to cut the head of the screw off, and then turned the dremel so it was perpendicular to the newly cut edge and made a cut so I could now fita slotted screwdrive into the head of the screw.
When you trim off the head, you actually have to measure how much you need to cut, because the distance needed for each gauge is different. You need the head of the screw flush with the outside surface of the vent pod, but also have to account for the extra length needed to fit the plastic housing that came with the gauge(if you use it). Also, if you want max airflow from the vent still, and pick a tiny gauge, you may need to start with 1" screws.
You can also buy premade hex machine screws but I was cheap and lazy so I just made DIY slotted scews. You need High threadcount machine screws, because we dont really have many rows of threads biting into the screw. The plastic is fairly thin. You could use a nut on the inside to help brace the force, but it really isnt needed.
3. Now we have to match up the holes we just made with the plastic housing that comes with the autometer gauge. I eyeballed this laying it flat on a table, running my hexscrews through the holes and marking the plastic housing witha sharpie where the holes would need to go. (I am sure you can entirely skip) and just tighten against the gauge itself or the plastic housing. I just thought it would hold better using an actual hole / notch for the set screws to set in.
4. Screw it all together and eyeball your gauge to make sure you have it centered. If you want it offset, you can also do that. It takes a bit of work to get everything centered unless you count your turns / threads. If your set screws are too long, trim then a tad. If they are too short, congrats - you get to buy more and cut them all over again.
[align=center]
[/align]
For starters: I followed the online fotki guides on taking the vent apart. and then glued the outer ring back to part of thethe plastic vent pod (read the guides, you'll understand from that andmy picture)
Materials:
Autometer gaugekit from my local speed shop - 35 bucks. Has vaccum and boost.
Electrical Tape
10-32 machine screws (3) (or whatever size you want that has a high threadcount)
10-32 tap (see above)
Drill
Dremel tool
Small bit for pilot hole
bit for main hole(i think it was 3/16"?)
Glue (super or something like it)
1. I measured out 3 points equally spaced apart from eachother and marked the spots with a sharpie. 1 hole on top, and two on the bottom. Reason being - since the bulk of the weight is towards the front of the vent, I wanted a setscrew at the top aligned perfectly to brace the weight. The bottom two merely hold the gaugesteady.
2. I drilled a pilot hole at each of the marks and then followed up with the bit that closely matched the size of the screws, but made sure it was not oversized, so I could run the tap through it.
* You are screwing into plastic, so you do not*have* to use a tap, but Isuggest it.
The screws I selected were standard 10-32 1/2" paintballgun machine screws. As you cannot fit the pod back into the hole with the heads of the screws sticking out (well, you can with force, but you may NEVER get it back out), I used a dremel tool to cut the head of the screw off, and then turned the dremel so it was perpendicular to the newly cut edge and made a cut so I could now fita slotted screwdrive into the head of the screw.
When you trim off the head, you actually have to measure how much you need to cut, because the distance needed for each gauge is different. You need the head of the screw flush with the outside surface of the vent pod, but also have to account for the extra length needed to fit the plastic housing that came with the gauge(if you use it). Also, if you want max airflow from the vent still, and pick a tiny gauge, you may need to start with 1" screws.
You can also buy premade hex machine screws but I was cheap and lazy so I just made DIY slotted scews. You need High threadcount machine screws, because we dont really have many rows of threads biting into the screw. The plastic is fairly thin. You could use a nut on the inside to help brace the force, but it really isnt needed.
3. Now we have to match up the holes we just made with the plastic housing that comes with the autometer gauge. I eyeballed this laying it flat on a table, running my hexscrews through the holes and marking the plastic housing witha sharpie where the holes would need to go. (I am sure you can entirely skip) and just tighten against the gauge itself or the plastic housing. I just thought it would hold better using an actual hole / notch for the set screws to set in.
4. Screw it all together and eyeball your gauge to make sure you have it centered. If you want it offset, you can also do that. It takes a bit of work to get everything centered unless you count your turns / threads. If your set screws are too long, trim then a tad. If they are too short, congrats - you get to buy more and cut them all over again.
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