My newly acquired TT 225 has an exhaust leak in the downpipe on the flexible section. Is this easily repaired. The pipe looks good and rusted in there at the flanges so a muffler shop will likely damage it when removing.

What's required to remove the pipe. It looks like one of the bolts needs to be accessed from the top after removing the intake pipe and cross brace.

Also, I can't pull the code, I keep getting a link error on my OBDII. I haven't tried resetting with the battery yet. Any ideas?

 

if you've got blown flex section, there's no good fix but replacing the DP. Luckily, there are plenty of good options out there (I'd go catless if you can).

Try removing the battery lead; also make sure that your ignition is in the correct position when trying the OBDII scan. Finally, try another OBDII unit.

 

I was somewhat mistaken, there is an exhaust leak and I fixed that, but I'm hearing a loud burble on the passenger side when the car is cold, then it goes away after 5-10 minutes of warm up. I have to assume this is some type of emissions valve like BMW has on their cars. It takes in fresh air during warm up, then closes. Is this correct and a normal noise? Thanks.

 

These cars have a secondary air induction for cold starts, although a 'burble' isn't quite how I'd describe the sound

 

might wanna see how much oil is collected in the intercooler....

 

Not wet sounding, just like a hollow exhaust sound, kinda reverberant. The sound goes away abruptly after about 5 minutes of idling, but sounds like a VW Bug until it does.

 

well, i remember my car having a loud idle when the secondary air was still hooked up, but it just sounded like a loud idle, no burble or anything... maybe i just dont remember anymore. doesnt sound like its hurting anything...

 

I don't have emissions in TN, so how do I disconnect it. Is it a simple vacuum hose to the valve that I can cap? Will it throw a CEL?

 

OK, all is fixed so I thought I would provide an update for others looking at this thread with the same problems. First, the reason I couldn't read codes is because the instrument panel was FUBAR and causing multiple other things to fail in the car. I had that remanufactured by bba-reman.com and it works great. Second, now that I can read codes, it is a steering angle sensor malfunction. I had my car aligned and it never came back. It seems that the steering wheel must be at 12 oclock with some minor variance or the ESP angle sensor will see an error. Third, the exhaust leak was the flex section after the turbo. I tried to repair this with putty, but it was too bad and kept burning off. I replaced the pipe this week with a 42DD 3" DP with CAT. Now we're in business with no errors and a car that screams.

 

I found the noise source for the secondary air induction. It's coming from the air cleaner box for the first two minutes after a cold start. I can disconnect the host from the SAI pump and plug it with my hand and it goes away. I'll just leave it alone because I suppose it's normal and no CEL.