sqrt((boost+14.7)/14.7) * CR = ECR

sqrt = square root
boost = psi of boost
CR = static compression ratio of the motor
ECR = effective compression ratio

This formula will give you your final effective compression ratio.... Im not sure how many inputs the computer effectively controls....but many cars have a safety feature built in.......if you advance timing it will automatically decrease the boost pressure to save itself from detonation. 15 degrees of total advance timing and 25psi is pushing it even with water/meth i would think. ??? We run a total of 10-12 degress advance with 110 mix running 9 pounds of boost on our blown small block...im not sure what the tolerances are for a much smaller 1.8l. Boost pressure is a little different with a blower and turbo

 

Well the Water / Methanol increases your Octane level from 93 to almost 118-120 Octane I believe.

I was running 23-25psi of boost prior to the W/M and the Boost leak and there were times when I'd have to throw $5 in 87 Oct in the tank to get me to the Store in Osan to get 93 Oct Fuel (I Live in Korea where most cars run on Propane or deisel. They do have gasoline at most gas stations... but they dont use it enough to even post any Octane ratings. When asked, they dont even know what Octane is. Besides, the Gasoline is $1.80/liter, which equates to almost $8.00/gal... for regular unleaded lmfao. The closest gas station with Octane ratings is 20 miles away) Never got any knock though. thats good info to have though blown87camaro. I'll have to copy that down and throw it in my book.

 

try this.

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec40.shtml

 

Day 3 [Oct 15th]) : Well, I'm up to 7.5 degrees timing advance... and still not a single knock (with OR without W/M turned on) and still no noticeable gains. I am beginning to think that both Water / Methanol Injection... AND Lemmingwinks tuning software are just a myth. I mean... they ARE real things... but neiter have shown me much of anything really. Not a lot anyhow. I have changed a ton of stuff with the lemmingwinks software... written the changes to the ECU... and still have not seen a single change. As for the water/methanol injection... Its supposed to reduce knock and lower intake temps... However... I finally dicked around with Vag-Com for a bit and got into the measuring blocks section. I just went for a 30 minute drive on the highway (laptop in the passenger seat. Vag-Com running) and I was monitoring a few things. I had one set of blocks set to monitor the knock sensor voltages... and the other set of blocks monitoring the intake temps.

well well well... to my surprise... I could watch as my knock sensor voltages increased and decreased with throttle. Weird and suspicious thing was.... when i hit the kill switch on the W/M injection and turned it off completely... it made ABSOLUTELY NO DIFFERENCE in the knock sensor voltage OR the intake temps... according to the readings coming directly from the Vag-Com. So if my readings are fluctuating in the exact same range for those... whether I have the water / methanol injection going or not... then doesn't that mean that the w/m injection is NOT working as advertised by lowering temps and preventing knock?
so one of these systems is a phony. Either Vag-Com is just spitting out random numbers to make you think its making calculations and taking readings.... or the W/M is doing nothing and Vag-Com is showing me just how little the W/M is doing.

Also... where in Vag-Com can I see whether my ECU is pulling timing? Is there somewhere i can view whether or not the ECU is retarding my timing as a protective measure?

Ok... so anyone have any thoughts on all these findings?

 

ask johnny bravo on vortex he knows all about the tuning stuff me and him are gonna do water/meth this spring on both are whips

 

Chris dont advance the timing you want to pull timing
you want to be as close to 0 as possible
should read 0 0 0 0 at idle this log block
pull as much as you can as long as you pull 0 across the board

 

You want to advance timing until you see some pulled, then drop it back down to where it was before it was pulling it.

 

^^^ya thats what i'm saying but the 7.5 is way too much

 

Are you making sure when you do the changes that your re-writting the ECU, not just changing stuff then unhooking it without it uploading? Then the changes are usless.

 

It's being written.
Problem is Nate.... how the hell do I know when to stop if I cant tell when timing is being pulled?!
It has NEVER knocked.... and nobody can tell me where to find out if its pulling timing.

and Andrew... there's about 2846750198364508971634089561320478652013946589 blocks that say 0 0 0 0 ... so you'll need to be WAYYYYYYY more specific than that. lol

I need like a number or something. and honestly... if 7 degrees advanced is too much... then why the hell have I NOT seen any power gains AT ALL?
It's not like I started this thing at 7 degrees advanced... hell I drove around for 2 days at 1.5 degrees advanced and saw jackshit then too. then it was 4.5degrees... nothing then either.

No matter where the timing is... I havent seen a single power increase