Ok, first off I have to correct myself. Lemmingwinks is the Version of Unitronics Software for the Serial Cable. The version for the USB cable, is called Unisettings.

Okay then. So I have the installation complete on the Water / Methanol Kit. As most of you know, MOST of the gains you'll get from W/M injection cannot be gained from the actual injection. The injection is a tool that allows you to safely advance your timing and increase your boost more than usual without damaging the engine. These Timing advances and Boost increases account for up to a possible 40hp on the TT.



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Day 1 [Oct 11th]) So here I go, I strap on my butt Dyno and Im off to tune this biotch. First I go ahead and advance the timing by two increments (.75 degrees each. Total of 1.5 degrees advanced). I drove the car for a day and a half like this and did NOT notice even a little change in performance.



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Day 2 [Oct 13th]) Time for me to dare... to be daring ( I say this because even after tons of research... I have yet to find a single person that can tell me a good place to advance the timing to) Well I go ahead and advance the timing an additional 4 increments; this makes it 4.5 degrees advanced altogether. I drive it around for about an hour and I feel some differences but not a lot of gains in the way of hp or tq. It DID sound a lot different though. Ok... so I go to it again and advance it once more by two increments (now Im sitting at 6 degrees advanced timing). I drove it home (about 30 miles) and I just couldn't help but think there was absolutely no difference in power whatsoever.But still there was this sound difference.
As you could imagine... this was beginning to be a very bleek and disappointing drive since I was expecting all this power from the timing increase. well I come around this turn and slow down to almost a dead stop in this long windy highway and decide I wanna play around. Well I jump on it from 5.2k rpms and start powershifting like a **** through the gears when I see it...
.... who'd have thunk it...
... I dont always watch it... but when i launched and began power shifting I looked over at the boost gauge and noticed that my boost was peaking at 16psi and settling to 15psi. (I've had a small boost leak for quite some time that dropped me from 23psi solid and steady... to 19psi peak and 18 psi steady) Then it hit me... so I punched the gass... down to the floor.... by the time i got home... I was peaking at 14psi and settling at 12psi.

This whole time.... I felt absolutely no power difference between the before w/m installation... and after... because with the water methanol injection and the timing advanced.... The car was pulling like it did when I was hitting 23 psi steady and holding it.... but I only had 14psi.

So my dramatic drop in boost was preventing me from seeing the true gains of the timing advance because the timing adavance was pretty much just getting back up to the power that it was without the boost leak. (keep in mind that when I advanced the timing... I did NOT advance it until knock and then back it off.... no... I didnt even advance it far enough forward for it to knock when the water/methanol was OFF. So with the Water / Methanol on.... I probably have a good 7-8 additional degrees of timing I will be able to advance before i near the threshold of detonation. not to mention that Andrew sent my Vac hoses last Tuesday so the boost leak that causes me to lose almost 10psi of boost will be gone too. So by next week.... I'll be looking at an ADDITIONAL 10 psi of boost (if I stop at 22psi) and 6-8 more degrees of timing advanced.

I am pretty sure though that from the acceleration of the boost drop-off today... that the extra power gained from the timing just ripped open the already busted vac line and took it all the way down to 12psi.



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So did you finally get your vac hoses from hightempsilicone or somewhere else?

 

get the leak fixed, turn off the w/m, get a baseline, THEN start adding the timing back with w/m and report changes made. You will see the bigger gains in the upper rpms like in the graphs i posted in the other thread. This will keep the car moving good in the upper rpms when the boost isnt as strong.

 

hightempsilicone.com never responded to any emails or phone calls after they charged my card and didnt send anything. I reported them... and I had my bank get my money back.

Andrew helped me get some hoses from hosetechniques. They should be here tomorrow.

 

Anyone know the detonation (engine knock) threshold on our cars for when you're adjusting the timing?

When I was advancing timing, I got a warning message on Lemmingwinks when I got to 6.0degrees advanced. The software designers put that in there as a safety precaution so that it would warn you before you did any damage. Im pretty sure that warning at 6 degrees was because most of these engines are safe to advance the timing up to 6 degrees safely before you start getting knock; even without Water / Methanol injection. Of course since I have water / Methanol injection, I'm probably safe to advance my timing up to about 13-14 degrees advanced before I start seeing knock. I don't plan on advancing it that far... not unless I have the laptop with me at the track and I plan on retarding it back after I get done. I'll probably keep it set right at or around the point where the engine would start to knock without water / methanol injection... that way if I run out of methanol while driving... I dont damage anything. Just curious if anyone knows a ballpark estimate. Keep in mind that its gonna be different for everyone based on mods, how good the gas you have in it is... and miscellaneous other variables. But im sure there's an average threshold that it hits at.

 

Not sure, but if you're in the car with your laptop anyway, why not monitor the knock sensor so you know right where the first signs of trouble are? Once you have that, and the timing it happened at, you should know right where your safe limit is, correct?

 

True...
... if only I knew how to use Vag-Com. lol
I mean, I have ABSOLUTELY no idea how to use even the easiest thing in Vag-Com.

lmfao... the extent of my Vag-Com knowledge... the hardest thing I know how to do in Vag-Com... is in the "Options" section, I know how to verify that my USB cable is connected.
I even downloaded the entire instruction Manual for Vag-Com on PDF... and printed it out and put the whole ting into document protectors in a binder, with all the vehicle specific pages and the "neat tricks" pages printed too and in the book. I also downloaded the spreadsheets from Vag-Com that will calculate and graph out your horsepower and torque (in Dynograph style formatting) based 100% on readings, time, and raw data from Vag-Com during Vehicle runs. That tool looks pretty damn cool too since it uses some pretty advanced mathematics to do it all; and the examples they showed (spreadsheet dyno based on Vag-Com numbers & Real Dyno from actual Dyno test) were almost identical. It killed me how accurate that thing was just from numbers coming out of Vag-Com.

Anyhow... yea, I guess i could watch all that stuff while im driving... once i figure out where I would even go to monitor a knock sensor. How many codes and crap to you need to enter to view that anyway? Everything I tried to do on Vag-com before asked me for a bunch of channel identifiers and codes (i dont know that ****)

 

You can look at all you want, just make sure if you're changing any values, you write down what the original was first. If you don't you may disable something you need, and w/o the original coding, you won't be able to get it back.

But, you can look all you want w/o hurting anything. I'd suggest doing that.

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/tour/m-blocks.html
Select the engine tab, and then measuring blocks, and go to town. Theres hundreds of groups to look thru, I'm sure you'll find a block thats useful. I'll do a little looking myself, see if I can't find something for you. I'll occasonally just start clicking thru different blocks just to see whats there.


This is also fun/handy. Output tests- you can make pumps/switches turn on and off at will, to make sure they're working properly. http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/tour/out_test.html

Basic settings, much like measuring blocks, but this one will have the car do adaptions and whatnot (like a throttle body adaption (pictured in link)
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/tour/b-settings.html

Code Module, Adaption, and Login I'd avoid until you familiarize yourself a little more with the system, and even then, not necessicarly something I'd screw around with much. Most I've done is recode the central locking to roll my windows down/up with the key fob, and unlock both doors with one button push.

 

Sounds like fun, you make me want to go get a w/m kit so bad.........!

 

Hmm... how do you set the fob to roll down/up windows?!
I've wanted that so bad since i got this car. My maxima did it... and it pissed me off that the audi does not. lol